[QUOTE=GpWaP1 s2k,May 11 2010, 07:59 AM] With E85 you should be able to hit over 500hp.

 

It's been proven with another member. He had -10 an lines on his relocation kit and went to -8 an to see if that would help his oil pressure. The -8 lines raised the oil pressure by almost 10 psi. Smaller lines will yield greater pressures but a little less volume of flow, to an extent. The -10 an lines flow too much oil to sustain that higher pressure needed for the oiling system. It's basic physics........

 

It would depend on where you measure the pressure, you would end up with higher pressure in or before the line because of the greater restriction but less flow and pressure to the engine where it counts. Whoever did the test obviously had his oil pressure sensor in a bad spot. By your logic (or whoever "proved it") a -3 line would be the best since it would "raise the pressure" the most, but see what happens to the oil pressure in the motor when the pump has to try and flow through that. It would be really high (probably over 100psi at idle) if you measured it in or before the line but probably more like 10psi in the motor.

"It's basic physics"

 

^^His oil pressure sensor was at the stock sensor location. I've been running the -8 lines since 03 with no problems and my oil pressure is around 95 psi, when the gauge read correctly that is. UR also uses this same size line on their kits that have been around since 01 I believe. If you look at the channels inside the relocation block, they are about 1/2" in size so going with a -10 line after that isnt going to help from what I can tell. So, why not just leave it at the 1/2" or -8 size all the way in and out?

 

It's a common mistake to think that -8 is 8/16" or 1/2" ID since that is how they are classified however that's not even close to the truth. Take a pair of calipers to a -10 fitting and you will find the ID of a -10 fitting is .465" a -8 fitting is actually .360"

So going from a -10 to -8 line results in a 40% reduction in cross sectional area. Even worse if you calculate from 1/2" to -8 size. It's pretty obvious that is going to cause a drop in pressure.

Now don't get me wrong I think your fine either way but telling people -8 is better than -10 is pretty ridiculous.

 

You are correct, although the -10 fitting ID is actually about .520" and the -8 fitting ID is about .380" at the smallest points. I was going off the size of the ID of the fitting that UR uses for the 1/2" hose they use. When I got their kit, I measured the ID of the fittings they used and they matched up to the -8 ID and thats why I went with -8. I knew that -8 was about .380" but its the same size as if you were to use 1/2" rubber hoses when going into the hose fittings that have a smaller ID of around .380". Using -8 and 1/2" rubber hose with their fittings is pretty much the same is what I meant.

 

Looks like IP just got paiiiid

 

Are you going to brace the manifold?

 

No. It didn't come with a brace which IP doesn't include anymore. The manifold is solid and I don't believe I should have problems. At least I don't think I will.

 

I was able to do a couple of small things today. My buddy and I removed the bumper, the air pump, and the L brackets that would get in the way for the charge piping.

For the hose from the air pump to the EGR, what should I do with it? Should I leave it be in behind the bumper, or something else? I don't have an EGR block off plate so I'm not gonna remove it now.

I went to test fit the intercooler. From the install pictures that IP provided, it looks like I have to remove the bumper beam? Will I have any issues with the car being less structural sound? Obviously a front end impact would suck, but like rigidity with the chassis and cornering?

This is the picture from IP I'm talking about.