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kasper differential (pics added)

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Old May 19, 2007 | 09:24 PM
  #31  
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From: Barkhamsted
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Originally Posted by gotswap,May 19 2007, 05:10 PM
Very nice, I take it the install was not a plug and play setup, hopefully it all works out in the end.
Well, it wasn't a plug and play setup maybe because I got wrong parts to begin with:

a) I got one wrong axle so I ended up taking it out and shipping it back to driveshaft shop
b) the round aluminum plate that bolts up to the tranny was made incorrect for the new style 04 and up tranny flange

As far as the axle goes, in spite of getting the wrong axles initially, I have to say that driveshaft shop did act courteous and fast and shipped me back the right axle in no time.

First off, As far as the driveshaft goes, it took a while to get the driveshaft even though I was told wold be ready in just a few days after I let him know what the measurements are for the driveshaft.

Ok so fine, I got the driveshaft finally, and I go to bolt up the round plate to the tranny, and the bolts are tight going in. The last few holes weren't even mating up correctly to the tranny flange. After speaking to kasper he asked me to take off the flange off the tranny again, which I had just changed from the old style to the one I'm now taking off. I ended up taking the piece off the tranny and taking a nice 2.5 hour drive to Jersey so that Kasper could machine another piece. After examination by him, the holes were off by 1mm and I asked why and he stated that these measurements were given to him by someone from the s2k community. So my argument was that if you are the fabricator, then you are responsible to measure this stuff yourself and not rely and someone else's possible mistakes.

But any rate, as a proactive measure brought the driveshaft with me to Jersey to make sure the piece mates up to the driveshaft. When the piece was done which took almost an hour, I mated it up to the driveshaft and one hole was off. So again, I could not use the piece just machined.
So he had to go back to the drawing board and drill the correct hole plus drill another one opposite to the other hole to keep the round plate balanced. And then I was finally out the door at around 12:30 am.

Now, to drive back home for 2.5 hours again.

I do have to say that kasper was very accomodating in spite of the situation and very knowledgeable in what he does and has very high machine skills but sometimes little mistakes can cause the end user frustration and down time.

And actually, after all this, then the axle issues came second which meant more down time.


But as long as it works in the end is what ultimately counts.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,May 18 2007, 05:18 PM
I paid $5500 for the rear.
Plus maybe like 200 in catch can, SS braided line,fluid, hardware.
That price is with my own labor installing it
This is what you have to pay to get the power to the ground without having to worry about exploding the rear!
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Old May 19, 2007 | 10:54 PM
  #33  
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From: Barkhamsted
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Originally Posted by Phillie,May 20 2007, 01:47 AM
This is what you have to pay to get the power to the ground without having to worry about exploding the rear!
This is true
pay to play

Blew 3 other rears which almost amount to that much anyway.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:20 PM
  #34  
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Unless you car is making 400+ ftlbs of torque you won't break the ring and pinion or differential on slicks. 8 3/4 chrysler diffs were OEM equipment on all muscle car era Mopars with automatics. You may break axle shafts, but a properly built 8 3/4 won't break.

The only other diff offered was a 9 3/4 Dana 60 on 4speed and Hemi cars.

As far as you venting issue, I'd be removing the center from the back housing and verifying the vent is clear from the inside. Since this diff originally used soil axle shafts and full axle tubes, you may not have enough air space inside the housing for the oil to go. Gear oil originally lubed the axle bearings through the axle tubes 2.5 feet away.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #35  
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is this a solid rear suspension set up? or is it still independent?

do you get wheel hop when you launch? or i guess youll find out in 1K miles
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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #36  
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It's still IRS. The differential was originally used on cars with a solid rear axle.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:42 PM
  #37  
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so how the half axles are sprung doesn't have a direct influence on what diff you can use? interesting
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #38  
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It's a completely custom setup to run the Chrysler diff as and IRS.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 07:03 PM
  #39  
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wow that thing looks so solid
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Old May 20, 2007 | 07:16 PM
  #40  
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From: Barkhamsted
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[QUOTE=Slows2k,May 20 2007, 08:20 PM] Unless you car is making 400+ ftlbs of torque you won't break the ring and pinion or differential on slicks. 8 3/4 chrysler diffs were OEM equipment on all muscle car era Mopars with automatics. You may break axle shafts, but a properly built 8 3/4 won't break.

The only other diff offered was a 9 3/4 Dana 60 on 4speed and Hemi cars.

As far as you venting issue, I'd be removing the center from the back housing and verifying the vent is clear from the inside. Since this diff originally used soil axle shafts and
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