Leak from turbo inlet...
#21
Originally Posted by Ultimate Racing,Dec 6 2006, 09:35 AM
It's not just Mazda. Anyone ever heard of the 4G63? 2JZGTE?
Turbo oil returns are not pressurized.
As for Greddy offering a drain-plug type return, the only thing I can say about that is that it's "Greddy". They're a big company and can't very well be asking customers to drill for oil return. As for how it affects the turbo seals, just ask their RSX and 350Z turbo kit owners about their blown seals.
Darryl
Turbo oil returns are not pressurized.
As for Greddy offering a drain-plug type return, the only thing I can say about that is that it's "Greddy". They're a big company and can't very well be asking customers to drill for oil return. As for how it affects the turbo seals, just ask their RSX and 350Z turbo kit owners about their blown seals.
Darryl
Matt
#23
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Originally Posted by mpower22,Dec 6 2006, 10:04 AM
I have spoken with Darryl a few times about injectors and rails when I had my STI and he knows his stuff. Has anyone taken a new (or used) s2k oilpan and filled it up with the recommended amount of oil (or h2o for that matter) and see if there is any room about the pan? If there is a couple inches of room I would think it would be okay to tap the pan at its top? Or am I just crazy?
Matt
Matt
Darryl
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Daryl,
Again, i believe its bad for a conventional bearing TURBO just like the turbos in the greddy kits.
THIS IS different as its a ball bearing setup, two different worlds here.
I also have a customer using a greddy turbo kit on a 2003 EP3 Si, with over 25,000 miles on it, and the turbo is still fine.
Again, i believe its bad for a conventional bearing TURBO just like the turbos in the greddy kits.
THIS IS different as its a ball bearing setup, two different worlds here.
I also have a customer using a greddy turbo kit on a 2003 EP3 Si, with over 25,000 miles on it, and the turbo is still fine.
#25
Originally Posted by Ultimate Racing,Dec 6 2006, 11:08 AM
We've gone one better. We've tested oil level in the oil pan and girdle with the engine running.
Darryl
Darryl
#26
Originally Posted by ya@inlinepro,Dec 6 2006, 11:10 AM
Daryl,
Again, i believe its bad for a conventional bearing TURBO just like the turbos in the greddy kits.
THIS IS different as its a ball bearing setup, two different worlds here.
I also have a customer using a greddy turbo kit on a 2003 EP3 Si, with over 25,000 miles on it, and the turbo is still fine.
Again, i believe its bad for a conventional bearing TURBO just like the turbos in the greddy kits.
THIS IS different as its a ball bearing setup, two different worlds here.
I also have a customer using a greddy turbo kit on a 2003 EP3 Si, with over 25,000 miles on it, and the turbo is still fine.
#27
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I am not trying to open up a can of worms here but more to try to get some answers on my specific turbo setup.
I have Inline Pro ball bearing turbo 35R. With not more than maybe 7K miles on it.
About 4 months ago I had smoke under the hood.
To my surprise I open up the hood and find oil all over the hood on the hot side of the engine bay. But I couldn't find the source of the leak and was scratching my head dumbfounded. After looking at it for long, I decided to pull the intake pipe from the turbo (yeah, cold air custom piping). And to me surprise, the inlet was bathed with oil.
So what was happening is when the BOV would open, it would shoot oil out of it onto the hood and everywhere.
So, I had drilled into the highest section of the pan for the oil return as was told to do and the turbo ran for a while this way.
I pulled the intake piping off while running the car and sure enough, while the turbo was spinning, oil was was covering the turbo inlet so upset enough thought that the seals were gone.
But in hopes to cure the problem somehow, I took the pan off and drilled the girdle, well above the oil level line. Ran the car for a while and my problem disappeared.
So given that I have:
ball bearing turbo
-8 or -10 return line (don't remember off the top of my head)
Why did I have this happen to my ball bearing turbo and then disappear after I moved up the return?
Is this an isolated case? what is the concensus of oil drains and ball bearing turbos?
Can the drain be submerged or not?
(Sorry its long, i know)
I have Inline Pro ball bearing turbo 35R. With not more than maybe 7K miles on it.
About 4 months ago I had smoke under the hood.
To my surprise I open up the hood and find oil all over the hood on the hot side of the engine bay. But I couldn't find the source of the leak and was scratching my head dumbfounded. After looking at it for long, I decided to pull the intake pipe from the turbo (yeah, cold air custom piping). And to me surprise, the inlet was bathed with oil.
So what was happening is when the BOV would open, it would shoot oil out of it onto the hood and everywhere.
So, I had drilled into the highest section of the pan for the oil return as was told to do and the turbo ran for a while this way.
I pulled the intake piping off while running the car and sure enough, while the turbo was spinning, oil was was covering the turbo inlet so upset enough thought that the seals were gone.
But in hopes to cure the problem somehow, I took the pan off and drilled the girdle, well above the oil level line. Ran the car for a while and my problem disappeared.
So given that I have:
ball bearing turbo
-8 or -10 return line (don't remember off the top of my head)
Why did I have this happen to my ball bearing turbo and then disappear after I moved up the return?
Is this an isolated case? what is the concensus of oil drains and ball bearing turbos?
Can the drain be submerged or not?
(Sorry its long, i know)
#28
Originally Posted by mpower22,Dec 6 2006, 01:28 PM
And I assume your results showed that the oil level filled the whole pan? I think Ya might have a valid point with ball bearing turbos but given the choice the girdle seems like the best place to tap...the question becomes how much of a whore is it to tap the girdle compared to the top of the pan? Can it be done with the engine still in the car? Darryl can you post a pick of where you tap. If its just as easy tap the girdle...if it isn't then it becomes another issue....
One clue though, you have to either use a really small drill, use a 45 or 90 degree small drill, or drill by hand with a big enough pin vise to hold the drill bit (this is what I did). Remember, the aluminum is pretty soft and drills fairly easily.
#29
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Alright guys...whatever was going on with my turbo was resolved. I went to watch the car get dyno tuned and about half-way through the tuning we experienced some issues with the EMS. The issues will be resolved tomorrow morning, but I won't be able to make it back to the shop until Friday afternoon. So, my tuning will resume (and hopefully finish) Friday afternoon and I will be posting a new thread discussing the results.
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