Ive done mine twice, Cracked Ap1 retainers, replaced with eibach chromolly, they didnt crack but they crushed and concaved in. Now I have Ap2 retainers, but now the retainers are wedged so hard in the retainers and valve ends, they wont come out.
Guess Im going to have to pull the head to get them off.
I think I need some upgraded keepers.? (yes I changed the keepers each time- Honda)

 

Try using the tool I posted up about and hit the end of the tool with a hammer to get them out. We had to do that on a few of them. You can also use a socket on the retainer and hit it with a hammer, but the keepers seem to fly around and get lost with that method.

 

Just tap lightly on the retainer with a brass hammer. You will hear the tone change, and this means the keepers are no longer stuck.

 

OK, so the consensus is to go ahead and replace the intake side if we've got an AP1? I figure if you're going to be pulling them out to check both sides might as well replace..

 

I have to do this in the next couple weekends and have been avoiding it because it intimidates me a bit. Here are my dumb questions:

Pushing hard on the keeper tool will not push the valve down into the cylinder?

I also presume if someone had a bent exhaust valve you would know because the cylinder would not hold much pressure?

And will you hear any air escaping during the procedure, meaning is hearing a slight hissing sound or something no cause for panic?

I also thought in a previous thread Billman had posted that he had seen a cracked retainer on cylinder 4 exhaust side in an extreme overrev situation. Make sure you inspect them when the cam is off.

 

As long as the tool is aligned with the valve and you have sufficient pressure to the cylinder, it will not drop. Just messing with my spare engine, even with the piston only a quarter of the way up, you can grab the valve if it drops.
I'm pretty sure if its bent that bad that it wont hold pressure, you have other issues to worry about than swapping your retainers. You can always do a compression test before to make sure everything is solid.
Yes, you will hear air hissing as it is not a perfect seal. Don't worry about noise unless it sounds like air is just straight coming out of a blowgun attachment.

 

Thanks.

 

Indeed, retainers have already costed me a built engine. The valve dropped. Ouch!

 

I just wanted to add a couple thoughts to this thread in the off chance they help somebody. I bought the special tool the OP suggested and I have to say, at about 155 pounds (I am a shrimp) it was difficult for me to get the reatainers back on. I called a friend who is taller and 270 and he did all the pushing of the retainers so keep that in mind. He was also putting some good force into it. And the key which the OP mentioned but should be stressed is perfectly lining up the retainer and keepers on over the valve and have pressure STRAIGHT DOWN and not to the side or you willl have to do each one a few times.

I had a 6th to 2nd overrev. I was at about seventy two miles per hour and wanted to shift into fourth to pass and it went right into second. No forcing it just slipped in and when I let out the clutch, you can guess the high pitched sound and I quickly pressed the clutch back in. I would guess for a split second the car was at about 10,000 rpm. I am not sure if this would have any impact but I have a roots blower which was instantly putting out about 8 pounds of boost as soon as the clutch was released, if that "helps" with valve float I do not know. But I drove a couple thousand miles after the overrev and did a compression test. Almost flat even 225 across all cylinders on my particular gauge.

With the cams off, all of the retainers looked PERFECT, not even the slightest sign the had moved at all. I took off all of the intake retainers and they were perfect, not the slighest sign of a crack at all. They were all flat and true, no sign of any warpage. Replaced with AP2's and new keepers. Then pulled all of the exhaust side, which were also perfect but replaced with new AP1's and new keepers for good measure. Did the valve adjustments and put it all together and it runs great.

For what ever reason, a near 10,400 rpm over rev + 2000 miles of driving showed not even the slightest sign of damage that I could find anywhere. I would not let that deter someone from being on the safe side, and this is a great writeup for replacing the retainers, just wanted to throw that out there for those that have an overrev it is not a cause for IMMEDIATE panic, but you should still do your due diligence to make sure the car is ok.

 

My AP2 retainers are for sale.


Under 40,000 miles on them.

Valves, springs also for sales, all in good condition.

-Greg