o'malley_808

Ok so I have been doing some digging on the forum regarding aluminum radiators on our cars. I haven't been necessarily been over heating but have been running hotter than I would like to.

I've bled the cooling system, not losing any coolant, not leaking, not overheating, heat works in the car, I am just simply running hot.

I have never had any issues with cooling until I had to replace my oem radiator due to a cracked upper tank.

I have tried both OEM thermostat and the mishimoto thermostat, various rad caps, and have not really seen an improvement in cooling.

The S2000 cooling system flows hot coolant from the top rad hose through the rad and must reach the bottom rad hose in order to open the thermostat. When an aftermarket rad is installed the rad stays cool enough that hot coolant is unable to reach the bottom rad hose and open the thermostat. This in turns leads to hotter operating temperatures.

If you take a look at this thread it seem others are experiencing the issue of "overcooling" with aftermarket radiators.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/666...d+cap+pressure

"Just low temp thermostat might NOT solve the problem because the bottom hose will NEVER get hot with out flowing some water.

My best bet is drille some small holes on thermostat to allow some water flow, which will warm up the thermostat to open when it water temp gets hot.

This is how we solve the problems on our Time Attack S2k.

I also have 64mm core custom made rad for my turbo S2K which had to do same thing. "

Anyone encountered this type of issue? I also have a cooling plate and the oem undertrays installed as well. I am about to try an oem rad again to see if this fixes the problem. Only other thing to try may be to drill a couple holes in the thermostat as others have done?

Any other things I can check/try?

05TurboS2k

Running hot 24/7 or during hard pulls or rather at a stop etc? Can you give more info?

I recommend against the thermostat generally as well as the switch. The car was properly designed already, if you have it flow sooner you're going to have to wait longer for the engine itself to come to temp thus damaging it driving it around cold unless it's a track only car I wouldn't bother.

There's some simple nearly free mods that can help greatly.

teamvalorracing

what are the temps you have datalogged and do you have a hondata img?

o'malley_808

Its getting hot just driving around town. This is just driving around maybe seeing 3psi at the max nothing crazy.

I originally just installed the rad since my OEM one was toast I figured why not "upgrade". I've swapped out between the mishimoto thermostat and the oem and temps havent changed much. Car gets up to temp no problem, and I never usually just jump in my car and go anyways.

The car seems perfectly fine sitting at idle. The fans cycle (controlled by the oem fan switch) as normal and the temps stay in check while idling. I just get the feeling that while the car is in motion that air is cooling the rad fluid before it is able to reach the lower rad hose and open the thermostat causing the temps increase more than they need to before it opens.

I'm just basing off the AP1 Modifry settings and I am running between 190 (4 bars) and 205 (5 bars) while cruising around at 50mph in 80 degree weather.

I haven't updated my AEM temp cal yet and have been referencing off my old setup. With my oem radiator my AEM would typically hover around 187-196 in cruising conditions. Now I am sitting around 205-208 just cruising around (again basemap temp cal settings).

I'll update my temp cal table and see what I am getting.

The car is ridiculously hot though. If I pop the hood I can burn my hand off the top of the rad and cannot even hold my hand to the IM or the front of the block. Even after leaving the car off for an hour I still cannot touch it.

teamvalorracing

running the aem series one?

do you have access to an infra red type thermometer?

your temp range seems correct bro. i see 187 steady during most mornings and up to 199 after sitting in traffic and 98 degree afternoons and i have the mishimoto with oem fans and oem tstat with supplied mishimoto rad cap.

sohc_mshue

205 to 208 with the basemap temp cal is perfectly fine and may even be pretty cool. You really should put the proper calibration in there. It reads very high with the one in the basemap.

sata3000

What's this basemap cal you all speak of? I have aem v2. Am I seeing the correct temps in aem pro? Sorry for thread jack to the OP.

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TerminatioN

Your only problem is that you are worrying too much. Those coolant temps are normal... especially without the modified (corrected) temp values. Anything less than 210 is not really a problem... and I probably wouldn't even really worry too much about it on the street until 220+.

Hell, I don't think my fans even kick on until 210.

If the bay of your car is overly hot, maybe you just need some heat shielding or ceramic coating. What you described doesn't seem too out of the ordinary though...

+1

Here ya go: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/184...-calibrations/

Not sure if this applies to the Series 2 or not though.

Uncoolron

This is good to know. My SPAL fan kick in also at 205-208 while sitting in traffic then temp goes down to 180 in few secs. While highway crusing the temps stay at around 180 and lower the faster I go.

Soul Coughing

I've had some issues with my modifry recently, where it'll throw 4 bars for coolant temperature, but my serial gauge will keep saying 180-185. When I restart the car, the modifry goes back to it's regular function, so I'm wondering if I have to send back my modfiry.

If you have a serial gauge and the temps seem to stay in the regular area, I wouldn't worry about it. I was recently in stop and go traffic on one of the hotter days (85 degrees) with the a/c on full blast, and I was getting 200-210 temps, where it usually stays at 185ish, but I chaulked it up to having my FB burn out, and relying on only my one SPAL fan.