Low compression Franken S2k motors?
Originally Posted by Artisan7471,Mar 12 2010, 03:48 PM
I moved all of the build and dyno pics to a public folder.
As for the car, It revs to 9K, however there is really no reason to go there, as the
turbo can not flow enough at those rpm's, If you look at the dyno graph, the max hp was at around 6k. After that the little turbo cant keep up with the motor, and the hp takes a dive.
As for the car, It revs to 9K, however there is really no reason to go there, as the
turbo can not flow enough at those rpm's, If you look at the dyno graph, the max hp was at around 6k. After that the little turbo cant keep up with the motor, and the hp takes a dive.
I have a new 5965B-B laying around I don't need.
Originally Posted by LeonGalt,Mar 17 2010, 10:20 AM
I thought f20 and f22 blocks were identical?
As for getting a tubular, I am running one. I have the obx pos mani. My turbo is pretty much shot according to the rebuild shop. They want nearly $800 to rebuild it. However I actually just bought a new borg warner t4 s200sx turbo. Should be good for 600 hp according to the catalog.
http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarn...-200-600hp.html
I hope to install later this summer, when I figure out how to make it work with my t3 mani flange.
Motor finally blew, had it at the track, got a few laps in and spun a rod bearing. So all in all I think this is a proven mod. Motor lasted around 2 years at 400+ hp, most of it as a daily driver, 2 track days, a bunch of autoX events lots of drag racing. Going to rebuild, with a k24 crank this time.
Motor finally blew, had it at the track, got a few laps in and spun a rod bearing. So all in all I think this is a proven mod. Motor lasted around 2 years at 400+ hp, most of it as a daily driver, 2 track days, a bunch of autoX events lots of drag racing. Going to rebuild, with a k24 crank this time.
What route are you going as far as rod/piston?
Not to much to update, car has been sitting for awhile. I got married this summer so wedding bills are eating up all my cash, rebuilding the motor may have to wait for awhile. Anyway I pulled the head off, the pistons and cylinder walls look pretty good. The #2 rod bearing is the one that spun. It has a little more fuel wash due to the decrease in compression after spinning. The car was having issues staying cool at the track the day it spun, every session it would clime to 4 or 5 bars within 3 or 4 laps. I think the car was detonating the lap before the bearing spun. Should of pulled it in, however me like a dummy just kept my foot in the gas
I may have had a bubble in the coolant system, as the previous 2 track days the car ran fine without a hiccup.
On a side note last time I blew the motor, I thought that the fram oil filter had failed and let little bits of bearing circulate through my oil system. It turns out it wasnt the oil filter, all along it was the ultimate racing oil relocation kit. DO NOT BUY THIS KIT, it is poorly designed and allows oil to bypass the whole oil relocation kit altogether. Oil essentially comes out of the oil pump and goes backinto the block, including my turbo oil system. Little bits of bearing clogged my turbo oil line, at that point my gt30 hot side bearings melted to the turbine shaft
. I took it apart, its not pretty, time for a new turbo on top of motor rebuild
Anyway here are a few pictures.


I may have had a bubble in the coolant system, as the previous 2 track days the car ran fine without a hiccup. On a side note last time I blew the motor, I thought that the fram oil filter had failed and let little bits of bearing circulate through my oil system. It turns out it wasnt the oil filter, all along it was the ultimate racing oil relocation kit. DO NOT BUY THIS KIT, it is poorly designed and allows oil to bypass the whole oil relocation kit altogether. Oil essentially comes out of the oil pump and goes backinto the block, including my turbo oil system. Little bits of bearing clogged my turbo oil line, at that point my gt30 hot side bearings melted to the turbine shaft
. I took it apart, its not pretty, time for a new turbo on top of motor rebuild
Anyway here are a few pictures.


I had a fully rebuilt ap2 motor at 37,000 miles.
HOWEVER, the damge was to the piston #2 and #3.
You can have 1 & 4 which look great though. Also the bottom end components are mint, you can have all that too. So you'll just need 2 good pistons. I kept the rest of the parts in a plastic bag just in case someone was interested for some reason.
EDIT!!!!!! I KNOW OF ANOTHER MOTOR WITH GOOD PISTONS FOR YOU TOO! I'll look into that one this week. It broke a connecting rod (bolts) but the pistons looked mint, I tore it down but I think I kept the good internals.
-Greg








