Yeah they are a dollar each @ walmart IIRC,

 

I have never heard or seen anything about HEET. I have a few questions about it because I live in TX and its already 101 outside.. Crazy hot.

1. Has anyone used this over time with no problems?

2. How do you know when you have gotten to the octane level you looking for . (gas+Heet)

3. Lets say you use heet and end with 103 octane. You then get tuned at that octane. A few fill-ups later and a few bottles of
Heet later .... how do you know if your at 100 octane still and not 107 or 97?

4. Overtime Im thinking you would be at a different octane (gas+heet) so your tune would be off, am i right?

5. why would not everyone do this if so cheap and ez to get a higher octane?

6. What should I know about using heet?

7. Is there anything better out there , other then race gas and e85? Something like heet....

 

HEET looks like methanol, now need to find out how much is needed to raise the octane rating 2 full points to reach 93

 

It's still going to feel slow. Although my car makes over 400 whp, it feels more like 300 whp due to the heat. I'm also running e85. There's not much you can do in AZ summers since the air is less dense.

 

Running methanol(Heet)or any of the Alcohols in the fuel tank mixed with pump is going out raise octane which increases your headroom for detonation. We know higher higher heat reduces your headroom to control detonation. Engine timing retarding (tune) is the mechanical method to suppress detonation, but at the price of power. Higher octane fuel is a chemical way to achieve the same thing, so naturally the ability to run more timing from the lower flash point of the higher octane fuel means more power(this is all within a given spectrum)so its up to the user/tuner to determine whats going to be most effective for them to achieve their goals in their driving environment. Weigh out the cost of adding a higher octane fuel to your tank vs a tune and what the outcome is of each. Determining how much more octane will serve you is also part of this.

Someone may want to figure out roughly (as a general rule) how many points of added octane in your tank is worth a degree(s)of timing.

Water is the best means of adding octane wile also adding cooling which is a double combatant against detonation, however it has to be injected separately so it can properly atomize separately from your fuel tank supply and not create problems with your fuel system. So a separate injection kit is needed.

Hope this info helps some.

 

Heat and less air does suck, power is definitely compromised. I'd say a higher octane fuel with a more aggressive tune is about the best you can do. Injecting water would do wonders in this environment.

 

So I have seen many debates about the safety of alcohol and methanol injection or as a fuel additive. If there is any guaranteed safe solution then im all for it, and if that means getting an injection system then so be it.

 

The differences is the yellow bottle has methanol and the red has iso propoyl alcohol in it

 

Yes a separate component is potentially another thing that can malfunction as some like to argue, just like the other 100,000 components in your car that are relied on to work as a system. Safety is in the tune, not the product, if you ask the wrong things of the product then you will likely get bit in the ass. Don't confuse. Its a very practical and beneficial way to further increase performance wile balancing it with increased safety to your motor, given the right tune. Anytime you can lower your AIT temp and carry that through the combustion process, its going to increase the lifespan of your motor over the long haul, doing that AND being able to increase the power at the same time, is hard to poo poo. I know I may get some flack for what I'm about to say, but in many applications I believe it is more practical and beneficial then running E85 or any pure race gas set up, simply becuase of the added cooling you get with water and its on/off nature/ability to still run affordable pump gas.

Where some have gone wrong is in the injection type they choose and what they ask of it. (I did before I figured it out) There are several types of injection systems and they respond differently. Do yourself a favor if you are considering this and do some outside research on these types of injections systems, there isn't enough on s2ki yet. One tip for you would be to stay away from the Progressive control kits such as the AEM. What ever type of kit you get, it needs to be set up in a manner where the pump is running 100% of the time but recirculating until it is called upon via solenoid. This gives you the quickest respond time so that you do not run dry during a portion of your pull, causing potential failure. Progressive kits, at least as far as the AEM I ran, only pump once injection is called upon, this means the pump has to start and have enough time to generate enough pressure to start injecting into your motor, there is a several second delay in most driving scenarios where your not running from a dig, but pulling from a moving start. For example I would be on the highway and drop to 3rd gear to pass and the injection would not start until halfway through the gear, running lean and sometimes detonating, becuase the injection was set up for full performance during its use. I was finding myself having to break boost my SC car like a big turbo car to let the injection spool up to be safe. Stupid!

 

What kit would you recommend? Figure the nozzle could be tapped into the end of the after cooler?