or maybe i should be asking how much torque can it support....?

 

a lot from a roll, if you are launching you can break it with stock power. That IS the weak link in the drivetrain. The Tranny is decent but upwards of 600whp starts to really grenade itself ( transmission internal gears cannot support 600-700 for long)

 

Wow, that sucks. You'd figure they'd make the rear end better from the factory with that possibility. Well I guess I should ask him what HP he is wanting to hit. I'd bet he'd be happy with around 400-450.

So I'd imagine with around 450, he wouldn't 'HAVE' to upgrade the rear end. It seems like a lot of money for some brackets to switch to a nissan rear end. Not to mention that the nissan rear end doesn't even come with it.

Anything else I should be aware of? or any other recommendations?

Thanks again.

 

I believe they have another rear end. Its a custom rear built by a member here on the forum. PuddyMod just search that and you should come up with a good amount of info on his products and his rear end. I've messaged him several times about them in the past and seems that they hold pretty well. Its a stock diff with beefed up internals to hold the increased stress put on them. So its not just brackets your buying. But the downside to that is, its the same price as inlinePro's kit but IP comes with DSS axles and drive shaft, and PM is just the beefed diff.

As far as motor, the internals are already forged from the factory and the sleeves are pretty strong. Several people have made 600+ and a handful in the 700+ whp on a stock motor. Reliability wise is a different topic. But you say your friend would be happy with 450 ish which plenty of people are making on stock motors. Tuning is key, get the right tuner and set up and your friends motor will make 450 all day long with no problems what so ever. But like all things, abuse it enough and it WILL break eventually.

I see that you also asked about injectors. Within certain sizes they are priced the same. The smaller ones cheaper and the bigger ones a bit more. They way is I see it is since your going to most likely end up needing some from the "bigger" category, just get the biggest ones and let the tuner deal with it. They can adjust everything and make it run properly. Even if they are overkill for the power your wanting, you'll most likely never max them out and need bigger ones if you decide you want more. If your paying the same price you might as well just get it once and not worry about maxing them and needing bigger.

end rant. sorry if its a long post. Also sorry for any retarded sentences or grammar, I've been drinking.. Happy Independence day!

 

cool, sounds like this is gonna end up being pretty easy

Thanks for the help.

 

If he's never had a very high HP RWD car, might be best to play in low boost mode for a little. 450rwhp in a car this light is a LOT, and people oversteer them off the road stock! :-D

 

The stock engine is quite amazing. The internals are very strong, and despite the high compression ratio, you can run a fair amount of boost. The head design is very good at minimizing detonation.

The limit on 91 oct seems to be ~11psi. I'm unsure as to the limit on 93 oct. 11psi is still 400+whp range though.

If you want a built engine, Laskey is one place to look. With lowered compression, it's 500+whp on pump gas without breaking a sweat. With regards to a built engine, you can not just drop in new pistons due to the fiber matrix something or other of the stock cylinder liners. So building the engine requires sleeves.

 

With 400-450rwhp, I would heavily recommend upgrading the rear end. No need for the all-out r200 conversion, though. S2KPUDDYDAD is a site sponsor who builds rear ends. He can make one for you for whatever power level you want... From stock to 600+rwhp.

Also, a new clutch is also necessary. I recommend staying with a stock, or modified stock, pressure plate. The ACT ones have been known to cause crank walk because of the really high clamping force.

Competition Clutches is pretty good, as are Spec clutches. It sounds easy, but you REALLY need a good tune on this motor. If that is off, the motor can, and will, eat itself. Tuning the timing is key. Keep the AFR's conservative (11.5AFR is considered conservative under WOT).

John

 

alright. I will post what he decides to go with before he makes his purchase, you guys can let us know if you would change anything or, what else we might need.

Thanks again for the help.