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Misfiring at high boost

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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls
UPDATE

I am waiting on new 7173's so in the mean time I put in the NGK V-Racing 7405 (part number R5672A-9) Theses are my plugs for the Race Gas tune, and the misfiring is gone and with the slightly higer octane and cooler temps, the car pulls noticeably harder than before. The plugs were probbaly going south for a while


PS I had to hook my exhuast back up, lately the fumes from the Open Downpipe are actually starting to hurt my throat I will just use the electrical cutout for now and run the open downpipe for the track or on Q16. I probably won't lose much HO if any, however the main reason for me running an open downpipe was the reduced EGT's (made a HUGE diff) For example after a pull with the exhuast hooked up it would hang out around 1200-1300, with the open downpipe WOT it barely breaks 1,100's and if it does it backs down to 800-900 within a minute!
Why would you go back to running the problem non resistor plugs you just pulled out Any reason why your not interested in running tried and true 2668? Put these in and you wont have to worry about these causing you any issues for 50k+ miles. And they are resistor plugs!
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 04:47 PM
  #32  
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^ I had these fresh in the box brand new. I think I wanted to stay copper because I could gap them down, I am not sure what the gap is on the IRDIUM plugs, I will look into it though,


I also think the non resistor plugs are f@#king with my EMS. It locks it up when I am looking at the live view screen while driving and its hit or miss if I am able to download the ECU datalog. I heard it might be because of my plugs
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sohc_mshue
Originally Posted by Spoolin' timestamp='1320894207' post='21144000
[quote name='JoeyBalls' timestamp='1320886877' post='21143697']
thx guys, im using NGK copper plugs(7173), heat range 8's.I'm going to put new ones in, and get them gapped appropriately
You should ditch the 7173's. I switched to those from the iridium 8's a while back and had major misfire issues; switched back to the iridium 8's and it was gone. I'll never run another copper plug again; especially the 7173's.
Copper plugs are perfectly fine. You likely had issues because the copper 8's are non resistor plugs. The copper 7 bkr7e plugs are resistor plugs and do not have these issues.
[/quote]

With my power, it's not wise for me to run that hot of a plug so those won't work either. I ran the BKR7's when I was in the 400 whp range and they needed to be changed all the time because of rough idle. I'll stick with the iridiums.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls
^ I had these fresh in the box brand new. I think I wanted to stay copper because I could gap them down, I am not sure what the gap is on the IRDIUM plugs, I will look into it though,


I also think the non resistor plugs are f@#king with my EMS. It locks it up when I am looking at the live view screen while driving and its hit or miss if I am able to download the ECU datalog. I heard it might be because of my plugs
The iridiums come pregapped around .030" and I made 650 whp with mine at this gap on e85. I gapped them down to .018" now that I'm around 780 whp on e85, so you can gap them with no problems; I've been doing it for a long time.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JoeyBalls
^ I had these fresh in the box brand new. I think I wanted to stay copper because I could gap them down, I am not sure what the gap is on the IRDIUM plugs, I will look into it though,


I also think the non resistor plugs are f@#king with my EMS. It locks it up when I am looking at the live view screen while driving and its hit or miss if I am able to download the ECU datalog. I heard it might be because of my plugs
You can gap the iridiums, you just need to be more careful. Use a pair of needle nose if you like. Anyway, yeah I'm not surprised if your having this trouble with the 7173. I kept getting false laser triggers on my radar detector when I tried them. Don't waste your time.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 05:38 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Originally Posted by sohc_mshue' timestamp='1321195293' post='21152150
[quote name='Spoolin' timestamp='1320894207' post='21144000']
[quote name='JoeyBalls' timestamp='1320886877' post='21143697']
thx guys, im using NGK copper plugs(7173), heat range 8's.I'm going to put new ones in, and get them gapped appropriately
You should ditch the 7173's. I switched to those from the iridium 8's a while back and had major misfire issues; switched back to the iridium 8's and it was gone. I'll never run another copper plug again; especially the 7173's.
Copper plugs are perfectly fine. You likely had issues because the copper 8's are non resistor plugs. The copper 7 bkr7e plugs are resistor plugs and do not have these issues.
[/quote]

With my power, it's not wise for me to run that hot of a plug so those won't work either. I ran the BKR7's when I was in the 400 whp range and they needed to be changed all the time because of rough idle. I'll stick with the iridiums.
[/quote]

I did not mean to run bkr7 plugs on a high power engine . I was just saying that all copper plugs are not bad. The only issue with the 7173 plugs is that they are non resistor. In fact I run iridium plugs on my own car.

I have tuned a large number of cars running bkr7e plugs and never had rough idle problems with them. They will foul quicker than iridium plugs though, but are also quite a bit cheaper.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 07:47 AM
  #37  
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ngk makes a tool to gap iridiums makes it real easy, autozone has a $5 version of the tool but sucks its soft metal breaks after like 3x
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by miguel329
ngk makes a tool to gap iridiums makes it real easy, autozone has a $5 version of the tool but sucks its soft metal breaks after like 3x

please link to this tool!
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