ZSAK

Hi guys long time no see. I have recently bought back my old s2000 which has a inline pro stage 1 turbo kit. I have been out of the game for almost 4 years so please bear with me. Now I wanted to know was is there a upgrade kit out there for the inline stage 1 to a stage 2 manifold? and second question is currently my motor is shot, smoking pretty bad I think the rings are fried and was wondering for reliability and longevity sake would it be better to rebuild the block to oem specs or have it built by a shop? My main goal is to have a fun weekend car that will last for years to come. I would like to be north of 400whp if possible. It's not a dd to me but once the build is complete I don't want tinker with it much either.
Thanks for all your help.

VTEC2000

I'd contact inline pro about the upgrade. I regret not building my motor when I had to get a new one. I'd get it built especially if u want north of 400whp and not tinker with it. Plus you may want more power down the road. I'm in the same boat with power. We can have a west river SD vs. East river SD. Lmao.

1SlowSi

Stock block for anything under 700whp all day long.

riceball777

i just built my stroker f24 and if i were to do it all over again i would just stay with the stock engine. The stock engine is very strong and very problem free fpr anything under 700whp. Stock f22c with a tubular manifold with a gtx35 and a flex fuel tune= DONE

ZSAK

thanks everyone, now its been several years since I turboed my S, but at that time a log manifold was good for about 330-360whp on a dynojet for a stock engine. What has changed in the past few years to make an otherwise stock engine hit 400,500,600hp etc and make it still reliable for daily use.

ZSAK

lol that would be insane. Would make it a good time. There is a part of me that wants to do a 500whp build but just don't want to deal with rebuilding anything for a very long time.

Prokaw875

1. No there is no upgrade kit to go from a stage 1 to a stage 2 inline pro kit. Almost everything is different. But for your power levels honestly you dont need to upgrade your whole kit. Just get a bigger turbo, larger fuel injectors, and keep your old intercooler and cast manifold. Easy recipe for 400-450hp.

2. I almost promise you it is not your piston rings that are giving you the lower compression. Since we have the FRM lined cylinder walls it is almost always the cylinder wall that scores and causes the loss of compression. Same with honda H series... B and K series its the rings that go... but not for us. Your cheapest bet would be to find a stock motor(preferable unopened longblock) and just swap your whole motor for a stock one. And sell the one low on compression. Next cheapest/easiest route would be to have a shop tear it down and inspect it... then have inlinepro or a frm friendly machine shop bore it and get a mahle drop in piston, stock rods, new bearings, new gaskets, and seal it back up. Also you could have a $300 darton flanged dry sleeve installed, and run a typical forged piston and rod combo. Regardless what route you go if you open up the motor and rebuild it you wont spend less than $2000. Thats why I say just spend $1000-1500+ on a new mint condition longblock and be done with it.

Suprdave

If you have access to a quality machine shop, I dunno why you wouldn't build it.

Don't go crazy...Pistons, Rods, Bearings, Darton Dry Sleeves, Springs, Retainers,Valves,Studs. Prob ~ 2-2500 in parts, depending.

Now you have a new motor...or just call Inline and send yer stuff to them. Definately weigh out all yer options.

ZSAK

Thanks guys, locally I don't have any one who could build it, but I was thinking of doing the inline pro route. They seem to offer a bottom end build for $2700 and I can go lower compression and run more boost reliably but I have never dealt with built motors before. Prokaw, I was thinking doing just a long block replacement as well as you had mentioned only problem is the ones I have found are in the 100k+ mile range. I would prefer a motor under 40k miles would be ideal. You maybe right about the cylinder walls as well. I have not opened it up yet. Another question say I drop in a new long block will the f22c work as well without much hassle and can it be made to rev to 9k?
The last idea with a newer long block is ditched the turbo all togeather and keep it stock but that won't be as fun