I bought my s2k not too long ago and have decided to boost it, but I have never worked with a boosted car before (always had american muscle, so dealing with all the electronics packages has me out of my element). Seems to me that building an NA car will be reliable obviously, but cost just as much as boosting for 1/2 the HP gains.

Its an 05 AP2 with 33,000 miles, no mods at all. I want to make around 500-550 on pump gas, maybe e85 if I need to go that route. Its more of a weekend warrior type build, but I want to retain some drivability if possible. I have got a pfab stage 2 kit on the way with a GTX3582R and all the things that come with the kit (intercooler, dump tube, piping, hardware) etc. Also have an AEM v2 EMS, ID1000 injectors and walbro 255lph fuel pump coming. I'm going to move the fuse box to the passenger footwell area and the battery to the trunk. I am going to get a custom exhaust made from a friends shop here in Jax and I was going to get a 3.5 BAR map sensor. The question is, what else, specifically, do I need?

I have picked up an AP1 flywheel and am undecided on a clutch. I hear ACT is the "best" clutch, after looking at the threads on here for a couple months, seems that is what most people go with. I was thinking the 6 puck sprung with the HD pressure plate, the ACT stage 5 clutch. I might go meth kit later, and with my muscle background, this might be a drag car one day, so I want something that the car can grow into, but not something that its completely not going to work when driving to meets or on cruises and such. In the end, I want it to still be a car I can drive to dinner if I want.

Then electronics, the meat of my problem. I have been told that AEM can have different maps saved and then I can switch between them. That I can have an "everyday map for about 325 hp, a cruise map for 400ish HP and then a full out race tune with whatever the car will make. If I get an electronic boost control solenoid, and let AEM v2 do electronic boost control, how will I switch between maps? Will I need to hide a switch somewhere? Will I need to have a laptop in the trunk 24/7 to switch between maps? Will a tuner be able to get some kind of button combo to switch between maps (a buddy has a VW golf and he says he holds cruise control and hits some other stuff to switch maps, then turns key off and back on or something). So do I only need a solenoid ( http://www.aemelectronics.com/boost-...t-solenoid-668 ) or something else to let me switch between maps?

Also, I want to put the gauges where the audio "mode" button and the vent selection button are. Then move the vent selection button to where the hazards are, and I'll hide a switch for hazards somewhere discrete. I don't like the look of a 2 pod pillar mount, and I don't want to get rid of the head unit and hide 3 gauges behind the radio door. I don't want to have gauge pods just screwed to my dash either. Saw a thread where someone put two gauges in the locations I stated and it looked very clean to me. So, with 2 gauges "hidden" in the dash, I assume it would be best to get AEM serial data gauges so that I can switch between AFR, boost, oil pressure, etc (not as I drive obviously, but in general). If I get the wideband UEGO sensor ( http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...stall-kit-1225 ) is that all I need for AEM v2 to tell my multi gauge what the AFR is?

I know its a lot of reading, butI tried to be as descriptive as possible. I've searched through all sorts of sections on this website and others and haven't found any clear cut answers to these questions. I am a total noob when it comes to boost, so feel free to give me your $0.02 or your experience with stuff, but I want some constructive criticism. I am looking at assembling all the stuff I need within the next 2 weeks and don't want to get my car tore apart to realize that I needed to wire in a $10 toggle switch I didn't know I need, then be stuck for a couple days. Or, to get to the tuner and realize that I am missing some sensor and have wasted his time and mine. I want to get the car tore apart, put together and tuned relatively quickly. So, any advice on the build would be helpful.

Things I need?

Boost control solenoid
3.5 BAR map sensor
Clutch (ACT Stage 5?)
2 Data gauges
Wideband UEGO sensor
Exhaust

I know the tranny and rear diff are weak, but those are hurdles I think I'll cross when I get to them. An 8.8 rear with a v160 tranny would be awesome, but it would also cost almost as much as my turbo kit, plus 50 more hours of labor when I could find time, so thats not a problem I am going to tackle right now. Also, suspension mods are in the near future, sway bars, roll bar and coil overs, but right now I want to get the engine stuff done first.

I know there is a wealth of knowledge on this site, so thanks in advance for the help and support. Any lessons learned would be great to if someone has put a pfab kit in their s2k recently and remembers any hurdles they faced.

 

You could hit that power on pump. e85 is a lot safer but you would need a bigger fuel pump for sure and 1000cc injectors would be about at their limit at 500hp so you won't have much room to grow and An electronic boost controller would let you switch between tunes

 

So a stand alone controller plus solenoid is needed, AEM cannot switch between maps without having an external electronic controller?