So do I, however my wallet disagrees.

 

Bumping this because this setup didn't quite work out for me with the 100' heat we've had here in TX. I was seeing 210 ECT with the AC on and 215 when it soaked coming off the highway.

I spoke too soon in my install thread when I said these were holding up like a champ, it was only 85' out then. It's sorted now, though.

Two part fix. Part one was cutting the plastic away above the intercooler to let the air flow over it and hit the rad. Two was swapping out the shroud for two 13" 18amp Spal fans. Much better solution. 190' on the highway, soaks to 195' then drops to 188' after slowing down. This is with the AC on full and 97' ambient outside.

 

I had same prob and solution as top illogic. Ditched the mishi shroud and fans and went with 2 spal fans. Made a huge difference.

 

Just hook them up and wait for them to turn on, or if you get impatient turn your A/C on...

Put your hand in the engine bay and make sure the fans are blowing air on your hand (pulling air from front of vehicle towards the rear) if not swap the wires

 

I wonder why you guys werent getting good cooling out of the Mishimoto shroud. I havent noticed any problems at all and my temps stay right around 185-195 (highway) on 95 deg days with like 95 percent humidity and when the fans kick on, they are really moving some air. Way more than both of my old OEM fans. In the city, although I havent had my AC on, temps would get to about 205 but quickly drop to 195 when the fans would kick on.

Could there be some other problem with your air flow under the hood? If you dont have a good opening for the air to travel out of the hood to under the car, you get a kind of trap of air to where the radiator wont be able to cool as well. Do you have all the front underbody air dams in place? If not, this could cause a poor airflow through the engine compartment. Also, venting your hood can negatively effect the engine compartment air flow and you can actually cause air movement blockage.

 

I think the way the IC on the Mase kit sits fully flush against the bumper is enough to prevent any air passing over to the rad so the fans have to work harder to pull air through it. That was the problem for me. It may be the the Mishimoto setup would have worked fine after the bumper was trimmed away, but the Spal fans are monster. I'm happy with them.

I do have a vented hood, a Seibon top secret copy but everything else is stock including the air guide on the radiator. No cooling plate or anything like that. It worked great in the low 90s. But once it hit 104 out it just couldn't keep the temps down.

I've got my tunerview set up to show if the fan is on on the first page. Before these changes they were on a lot of the time, even when it wasn't that hot out. Out today I saw it actually turned the fans off even with the AC on.

 

i have a mase kit as well and have been looking into some fans/radiators


with your set up your just running stock radiator with spal fans?

if so what size?

 

I've got the Koyo rad in there, the Spals are 13".

T1 did have to reroute some of the IC piping because the motors on these fans are just that much bigger. That may not be necessary if you keep the stock rad though, it's half the thickness of the Koyo.

It's an issue you could attack in stages, though. I'd cut away the bumper trim first and see where that leaves you. It's the cheapest part to do and if it gets you temps where they need to be you're good.

 

so your saying cut the bumper trim before i even buy any fan/radiator?

 

Sure, just my thoughts on it, though.

It's cheap and you can't even see anything has been cut from the outside, just if you get down and look you'll have a roughly three inch gap now above the IC where the bumper used to rest right up against it before.