It should work fine as long as you arent racing in doing long left hand turns.

Why would comptech make this their preferred method on their superchargers if it didnt work.

 

Not trying to slam you by any means but I work for a manufacturer directly on our equipment and we technicians see all kinds of things that could be done better/different and we tell the engineers that all the time but it never changes...why? $$$ Comptech/Greddy may know about drain issues but it's too expensive to change things so they just deny it and ignore the problem. If they changed things then alot of people might not buy their products fearing more issues, or maybe they are afraid they will have to pay for any damage caused by their equipment. But don't just assume that b/c a manufacturer does it it's the best way...b/c they are all cheap asses! Look at the smaller fabricators. They all say to put it in the oil pan b/c if there kits mess up and they get a bad reputation...HELLO UNEMPLOYMENT!!! Just my opinion though...

 

Do it right or do it twice.

If you aren't capable, or afraid to tap the pan, modding your car isn't for you.

(no offense)

 

Im not going to get into this because you retards argue about anything no matter what..

IE

Adams gt30 not being able to hit 500 hp.....

but I would not personally use the drain bolt.

However I have and many others have done testing with oil pans and using the drain bolt as a return and there are not issues with it.

Fluid cannot travel uphill.
Gravity wins, so unless you have something blocking the drain hole into the oil..The fluid and gravity will always win.

I knew i should have filmed and youtubed my testing when i did it..

And the only reason i did it is to make sure i wouldnt have issues with my comptech when it was installed.

 

Fluid can splash uphill though. Throw in some G's and it'll cause the fluid to go up too.

Also, when the oil comes out of the turbo, it looks like a pale ale with lots of head. What happens when you pour a beer or soda too fast? You get a lot of head that builds up really fast.

I don't know about you, but I'd rather not have foamy hot oil backed up into my bearings.

 

Hence why i said major sweeping turns the oil may splash towards that hole, but not enough to ever blow out seals....

And no oil does not come out of a turbo the way you just described.

 

Not offended but...I know you have to at least have a garage to able to do this and would be easier to have a lift since the oil pan does have to come out. My buddy does have a lift in his garage, so it would be easier to do it there. Plus I don't think this job is as easy as changing oil. Modding cars could be for anybody and doesn't mean that they need to know how to do everything or maybe they don't have the supplies to do everything. (no offense)

 

I beg to differ. Looked very aerated coming out of the turbo after being spun to 110k rpms to me.

 

ok heres a little piece of info. Every single turbo supplier i know of and used will void the warranty on the turbo if you dont tap the pan properly. plain and simple. Like i said in my first post. It takes 2 hours max to do this and does not require any more tools than a basic socket set, a bung, a tap and some silicone or honda bond like i use. Why risk it. Just tap it and stop arguing and be done with it.

 

The oil usually does come out of the turbo pretty foamy, but if you're running the kind of oil restrictor that you should have with a GT30R, there's not going to be enough of it running down the drain line to cause an issue unless that drain line is either too small or blocked somehow. Engine oil also usually doesn't stay foamy for very long, unlike a good beer...

With a journal bearing turbo that's not water cooled, you have copious amounts of oil flowing through the center section and I could see someone having issues if the drain line doesn't drain above the level of the oil in the pan, but with a dual ball bearing GT series turbo like the GT30R, you should never have that much oil going through it.