OK, he was referring to the intake of the SC not the intake of the engine...gotcha. So, if I stay with a nv1200/1220 (I have read that the 1220 is basically the nv1000 as far as performance) then I will just need the mounting plate(which I could use from CT or SOS) and the blower. I would guess that the volute on the 1200 is a bit larger than the nv1000 but not as large as the 1500...larger the volute more cfm (that is what she said).

By the way thanks for your original thread, I know it was painful to update..I can assure you that I would have drove or pushed my car in the river and walked away with a big grin!

 

Again no problem.

It's pointless having all these pics from documentation and the associated knowledge and not sharing it with those that are curious about the upgrade.

 

Knowing what you know now, do you think the the extra 50cfm is worth the added hassle over settling on the 1200?

 

Well, my old S2000 is back up for sale here in Australia. Its done 2500 more miles, and he's given it a full respray and added some tacky wheels and an Amuse front bumper (yuk on blue!). If it werent for the fact I know it has that god awful Comp Stage 4 clutch in it, I'd buy it back..... for a low ball price given I know the history of the car for 6yrs of my own life and I know how well it was babied for. But that clutch kills the deal.

If I were to buy another S2000 (I like them but its unlikely) I'd simply go turbo. Stock motor and be done.

If I were to go supercharged, well in my shoes I still have all my maps and stuff from my N1000 and N1500 AEM ecu so it would be beneficial to go the same route knowing all the things I now know. I wouldn't buy a built motor with a f@#ked head - I'd simply run an unopened stock motor to 14psi (as my original AEM map did). And I'd buy a BNIB Novi 1500..... IF I had the appropriate plate. Which I don't.... so the sake of simplicity, ease of installation, bolt on ease, I'd simply go a BNIB N1200 and do whatever impeller upgrades 928 Motorsports offers.

The only way I'd go N1500 again was if I had that backing plate in my hands for about $100 or so. As I bought my N1500 with the plate it was beneficial to me at the time.

So IMO, unless you have the parts readily available, I don't think its worth the upgrade.

But then again look at Scott (? - Ilovemyhonda1984) I think he made 600whp @ 24psi with the N1500 BNIB (where as mine was a used example from Shad of Driving Ambition whom many here would know of for his track NSX / S2000's.

 

Bumping this thread so it doesnt get lost.

Update on my engine build. It getting assemebed pretty soon.

The parts list/

Golden Eagle sleaved f22

9.6:1 89mm CP pistons -which bores the displacement to a 2.3 liter.

Brian crower rods.

Micro polished and balanced crank

Arp headstuds and OEM headgasket

reconditioned OEM F22 head.

Going to be running 92 pump with water/meth injection

Any guesses on what my Dynojet numbers will be with either the 1200/1500???

 

How much boost? 450+?

 

Pump 450ish meth and pump 500-525. IMHO. It's gonna move. I'd see what it makes pump first.

 

Taking it to Max blower speed. So not sure how much boost that will amount to. 16-20psi? Probably more boost on the 1500 considering it can spin faster. Ive got a lower comp motor, so I keep going back and forth on whether I should go with a 1200 or a 1500. From what I understand the 1500 is only worth maybe 30whp? 50cfm isn't a ton, and being you have to spin it much more 20+psi to get it there, it seems as if its not as a efficient blower throughout the rpm range as the 1200 at comparable boost levels. I am not sure what the max hp is I can expect out of the 1200 with my set up though. My goal is 500whp+ if I can get it. 450 I would probably be satisfied, but that would be the basement number I'd be happy with after the expense of this engine build and new blower. I want to make sure I get the best bang for the buck and best overall performing blower. If I got to push the motor to 20+ psi with the 1500 to max it out, but its only worth 30whp at best compared to the 1200 at say 16psi, then it hardly seems worth the added heat and or potential risks of longevity. This car is a DD/road course car.

Any thoughts?

 

Yeah that's my plan, I will tune it on pump first and then see what gains I make with either my single or multi port. I can do either or. Both systems have pros and cons, just depends on how things are looking once on the dyno, and I will decide whats best for me to go with here. The thing I like about the single port is it runs before the TB/IAT sensor and atomizes more, so it runs a cooler denser charge that the sensor picks up. This is probably the best overall option with lighter duty use where even distribution in all cylinders isn't as critical. The multi port obviously provides equal distribution and technically should be able to run a more aggressive tune safer.

 

What made you decide on such a lower comp ratio? I'm going a similar direction (stroking to 2.4 and building the block) but I'm not lowering the comp ratio on the advice of Jeff Evans. He suggested I keep the stock compression ratio for a supercharged application, and the only people I know that change ratios, are using 10:1. I don't know anyone here escept turbos with 9:6:1. Just curious what made up your mind?