Ongoing questions about FI
Originally Posted by soulicious' timestamp='1316195615' post='20979736
I live in Caly with the SOS Stage 2 kit and took the SMOG test. For SMOG, you don't have to remove every component. I left the heat exchanger in place (connected hoses with an inline connector) and the S/C bracket mounting hardware to block (there is enough room for the stock airbox). Swapping injectors, ECU, removing blower and bracket, test pipe, catch cans, re-routing hoses to stock, etc took less than 4 hours. This process gave me a chance to ensure all the hoses and other parts where in physically good condition. Also, the Vortech SCi is the same as (compressor maps and internals) the Paxton 1220 and the Si is the same as the 1200 (unbelievers talk with Jamie at Vortech).
FML this is what i have to look foward to to pass a smog test?
Smog concerns, I assume the kpro and Vortech kit will plug and play, but to buy the basic smogable kit and then upgrade to make 375-400whp. Every two years seem to be lots of $$$$ hours and work if I did everything myself.
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Thanks to everyone and their helpful insights, lots of option and I'm trying to learn everyones ideas
keep the thoughts coming its VERY helpful
FYI: Vortech offers a impeller $200 upgrade to make it a 1200, Vortech offers black power coating on blower
Hondata, what a crappy customer service. if you are in business to sell part to new users you really should be
understanding you always will dealing with new people explaining the same thing every day.
part need to make Hondata work
Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003
Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013
TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003
TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003
Valve cover 12310-PCX-020
Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000
PCV valve 17130-PCX-003
IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)
one question asked "why do I need to buy "Valve cover 12310-PCX-020" what is wrong with the OE valve cover?"
HD response "YOU NEED TO BUY ALL THE PARTS OR IT WILL NOT WORK"
second question "are the Sensors RSX and my S2000 not compatible?"
HD response "YOU NEED TO BUY ALL THE PARTS OR IT WILL NOT WORK"
I just dont see what I need to replace a valve cover, gasker yes, cover WTF?
understanding you always will dealing with new people explaining the same thing every day.
part need to make Hondata work
Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003
Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013
TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003
TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003
Valve cover 12310-PCX-020
Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000
PCV valve 17130-PCX-003
IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00 (not required, but stock IAT will read about 30 degrees hotter)
one question asked "why do I need to buy "Valve cover 12310-PCX-020" what is wrong with the OE valve cover?"
HD response "YOU NEED TO BUY ALL THE PARTS OR IT WILL NOT WORK"
second question "are the Sensors RSX and my S2000 not compatible?"
HD response "YOU NEED TO BUY ALL THE PARTS OR IT WILL NOT WORK"
I just dont see what I need to replace a valve cover, gasker yes, cover WTF?
2. A standalone like AEM supposedly has more control over some things.
But...
3. I'm very happy with my EMU. Both of the tuners I've used here in Atlanta had no trouble with it.
This morning I had a leak down test in the engine
warm engine, sat off with hood up for 30-45 minutes before cylinder test
#1 = 10%
#2 = 7%
#3 = 20%
#4 = 13%
whats the norm?
will 8lbs boost be asking for engine failure
every 4000-5000 miles I add 1/2 to 3/4 Qt oil, only mobile 1 w/ filter every time
plugs look good with 25,000 miles
valve adjustment was 25,000 - 30,000 miles ago
on cold starts first couple second little chatter and was told the chain tensioner begins to slop and chatter
warm engine, sat off with hood up for 30-45 minutes before cylinder test
#1 = 10%
#2 = 7%
#3 = 20%
#4 = 13%
whats the norm?
will 8lbs boost be asking for engine failure
every 4000-5000 miles I add 1/2 to 3/4 Qt oil, only mobile 1 w/ filter every time
plugs look good with 25,000 miles
valve adjustment was 25,000 - 30,000 miles ago
on cold starts first couple second little chatter and was told the chain tensioner begins to slop and chatter
FYI for those of you concerned with smog tests, you can try to do what I do here in illinois, yeah its more expensive but I dont have to remove anything. I simply sell my car every year to my brother then a parent then back to me then and so on. I get a new registration and plate and I'm good to go for another year lol. Have been doing it for the past 5 years no problems




