I've had the DM100 (previous gen, so it's the non-OBDII version) with AFR, and boost/vac modules for almost 3 years/14k miles. No complaints.

 

Terrible gauges. Bad connections, laggy, overheating connectors, too dim to see in the sun. I had the DM-200 replaced twice in 3 years as it would simply no longer display anything.

 

The gauges seemed to be accurate but laggy as some have said.

 

Sounds like you had a bad module? I've never had a problem with mine. I have a Greddy boost controller still installed from before I had my EMS and between the PLX, the Greddy and the EMS, boost reads within about .5 lbs between the 3.

I did forget about the sun with the top down. Seeing the gauges in the sun is really the only complaint I have about the PLX.

I like the AEM gauge aside from the fact that you can only see one parameter at a time and have to switch between them.

 

To update this a little bit, I just tested plx water temp and oil pressure sensors against its replacement (Greddy D/A).

The only bad thing I don't like about the greddy multi d/a is that everything is displayed metric....but that is easy to get over. I will convert everything for comparison.



Water temp

I have both sensors in an adapter I made that is in the upper radiator hose, near the throttle body. About 8-12" from the oem sensor (which I have rescaled from testing info from this site). The PLX sensor is grounded correctly. I took a random operating temperature and compared them.

PLX 212
Greddy 196

I have my fans set to come on/off at 198/187 degrees, and the greddy gauge reads within 1-2 degrees on and off. PLX gauge would hover around 219/203.


Oil Pressure

Both sending units are in the same distribution block. This was tested at idle, with oil temp in the pan reading 182 degrees.

PLX 19 psi
Greddy 25 psi

It may not seem like a lot, but it is 25% off (if the greddy gauge is correct). I have not tested this at higher pressure yet, so I don't know if it would continue to be 25% off, or 5-6 psi off for the higher range of the sensors.


I had an Intake air sensor as well, and it would usually read 12-15 degrees higher than the oem sensor (scaled) through AEM. I say had because I don't have it anymore. The wire from the sensor fatigued and broke off close to the sensor. The IAT sensor they give you has no connectors....straight from the sensor to the plx module box. Very poor design for a sending unit that screws in (1/8 npt).


I used to like PLX. I've had a few of their widebands (m300) in the past, and never had an issue with them.

Can't say that now....I wouldn't recommend something I cannot trust.

 

Thank for the comparison. This really concerns me because I am also using PLX gauges(boost/vac, AFR, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure). My PLX coolant temp gauge (which sits in the upper radiator hose) also reads about 10 degrees higher than what my KPro says. I thought is was due to the coolant temp sensors being in different locations?

The Kpro reading always seems to rise quickly as opposed to the PLX where the thermostat has to open first before it could get an accurate reading.

Is there a better place to mount an aftermarket coolant temp sensor besides the upper radiator hose?

Oh and the oil pressure.........as I am driving (usually on the highway) my oil pressure readings vary but once in a while it will read zero(for a second, then it bounces back to a reading), and this is while I am accelerating. If I am just sitting at idle it will not read zero. I thought maybe it could be a bad ground? I am not sure what's going on here.....any ideas?