S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Problem with my set up / map / boost.

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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 02:53 AM
  #1  
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Default Problem with my set up / map / boost.

Running the greddy set up on an ap1 2000reg. Using greddy ap1 map @ 10psi.
It runs fine in every gear and pulls hard up to 6/6.5k rpm when the boost suddenly drops to about 2/3 psi and it feels like someone has whacked on the handbrake. There's no evidence of vtec kicking in either. I've got an ap2 harness and disconnected the green/grey wire and connected up the two yellow wires (tps?) so think that's all done right. I've also been told the jumper on the emu has been set for vtec.
Has it anything to do with the actuator vacuum line not running to the right side of the intercooler? It is currently going through a manual boost controller and then into the nipple on the 'hotside' intercooler piping? Guessing there would be a 2psi drop accoss the kit but this wouldn't explain the 6/7psi drop at 6k rpm? I've tried a mase map from a guy who previously had this exact kit on his car (apart from more free flowing) and that feels awful at any revs and almost redlines at 7k rpm?!
Any ideas about the vtec issue or boost drop? Thanks in advance!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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Check for boost leaks.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000x
Running the greddy set up on an ap1 2000reg. Using greddy ap1 map @ 10psi.
It runs fine in every gear and pulls hard up to 6/6.5k rpm when the boost suddenly drops to about 2/3 psi and it feels like someone has whacked on the handbrake. There's no evidence of vtec kicking in either. I've got an ap2 harness and disconnected the green/grey wire and connected up the two yellow wires (tps?) so think that's all done right. I've also been told the jumper on the emu has been set for vtec.
Has it anything to do with the actuator vacuum line not running to the right side of the intercooler? It is currently going through a manual boost controller and then into the nipple on the 'hotside' intercooler piping? Guessing there would be a 2psi drop accoss the kit but this wouldn't explain the 6/7psi drop at 6k rpm? I've tried a mase map from a guy who previously had this exact kit on his car (apart from more free flowing) and that feels awful at any revs and almost redlines at 7k rpm?!
Any ideas about the vtec issue or boost drop? Thanks in advance!

What sort of hack job do you have doing again? Get a real ems, and fix that wiring and you'll be ok. You can't just go swapping maps from different cars, each one is different.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Try tightening the hose clamps on the couples and check if they are all okay.. no tears etc...

You DON'T just swap other peoplés EMU maps and try them out!!!! Thats a disaster waiting to happen!

Try to get rid of the manual boost controller and get a decent one like the apexi avc-r or a profec b spec II if you MUST have a boost controller

Or just remove the manual boost controller and attach a hose between the actuator and the charge pipe

You can adjust boost manually by shortening/lengthening the actuator rod... You can find DIY's about that here!
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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I'm experimenting with different maps but keeping a very close eye on a/f ratios. I'm using the greddy map at the moment. If I attach the actuator straight to the pipe and use no boost controller, I get high afr's. I think the spring is set to 7psi. The car still looses boost at 6k. Checked all connections on intercooler piping - no leaks. It's started to stall now too under wot and won't start again for up to 10mins sometimes.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000x
I'm experimenting with different maps but keeping a very close eye on a/f ratios. I'm using the greddy map at the moment. If I attach the actuator straight to the pipe and use no boost controller, I get high afr's. I think the spring is set to 7psi. The car still looses boost at 6k. Checked all connections on intercooler piping - no leaks. It's started to stall now too under wot and won't start again for up to 10mins sometimes.

You need to stop before you damage your motor. I'd suggest you take it to your nearest tuner shop and have them give it a once over, you have several issues going on that from your previous statements I'm not sure you'll be able to figure out.

Good luck though.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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Even IF the a/f's are looking good, chances are that you STILL can get massive detonation at high rpm if the timing is all wrong!

That was the case with my "old tune"

You do not want to continue "experimenting" with your setup without the consult of a specialist tuner!
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