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Rebuilding Head for Turbo

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Old 10-16-2009, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by neeman77,Oct 16 2009, 10:25 AM
In that case lol...

This is what happens with stock valves:


That ruined the entire engine, other than the crank there is not much left.
Old 10-16-2009, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ERL_S2000,Oct 16 2009, 10:45 AM
4. If you seriously do not want to spend $2000.00+ on parts and machine work keep it simple. Do a set of valve springs,retainers and a set of standard valves. If you really want to get into the chambers and ports then you better do it right. Anyone can offer a 3 angle valve job, but how do you know that is whats best. I spent a lot of money getting the last one right because most things hurt and do not help this head.
I can agree with everything you said except for the standard valve statement. I can tell you first hand and many others will agree that the stock valves from the heat of FI, in my case the little Greddy, will warp. When I pulled my head all the exhaust valves were warped and when I started calling and talking with Laskey, IP, and many others they all agreed that a good exhaust valve should be utilized. As far as the seat is concerned that would be the next step however as you said this is no longer a budget build at this point.

With a new valve train included guides and machine work you are going to hit $1500.

I am still surprised that know one has set up a CNC process for our heads. I know that there are not large potential gains like the domestic heads I am used to but know one I found really stepped up to the plate with a good flowing head. The only sell with the S2000 head I could find was to add hardware for higher RPM and temperature. Now I had my head and TrboKev's completely reworked with new hardware then gasket matched to the manifolds, deburred and smoothed, rather than a deep port and I was very happy with the results though there is no way for me to quantify them. I also closed off the Air injection holes on the exhaust side as I no longer need them.

You can see in the combustion chamber that nearly no material was removed, and only a very slight deshroud was done between the valves. It should also be noted, that on the exhaust side there is a lip, see the scribed mark, intentionally left all around the head to help prevent exhaust gas backflow and with a cast short runner manifold, I think this will be imparitive.





Old 10-16-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Oct 16 2009, 05:19 PM


That ruined the entire engine, other than the crank there is not much left.
Yep, and to top it all off the little pieces go through the turbine wheel of your turbo.
Old 10-16-2009, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by neeman77,Oct 16 2009, 02:36 PM
Yep, and to top it all off the little pieces go through the turbine wheel of your turbo.
Damn, I didn't even think of that, was the wheel trashed or did it pull through?
Old 10-16-2009, 03:04 PM
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No, it was ruined. You cant replace just the turbine wheel on a GT35R, you have to replace the entire center section. Cherry on top lol.
Old 10-16-2009, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dsddcd,Oct 16 2009, 02:33 PM
I can agree with everything you said except for the standard valve statement. I can tell you first hand and many others will agree that the stock valves from the heat of FI, in my case the little Greddy, will warp. When I pulled my head all the exhaust valves were warped and when I started calling and talking with Laskey, IP, and many others they all agreed that a good exhaust valve should be utilized. As far as the seat is concerned that would be the next step however as you said this is no longer a budget build at this point.

With a new valve train included guides and machine work you are going to hit $1500.

I am still surprised that know one has set up a CNC process for our heads. I know that there are not large potential gains like the domestic heads I am used to but know one I found really stepped up to the plate with a good flowing head. The only sell with the S2000 head I could find was to add hardware for higher RPM and temperature. Now I had my head and TrboKev's completely reworked with new hardware then gasket matched to the manifolds, deburred and smoothed, rather than a deep port and I was very happy with the results though there is no way for me to quantify them. I also closed off the Air injection holes on the exhaust side as I no longer need them.

You can see in the combustion chamber that nearly no material was removed, and only a very slight deshroud was done between the valves. It should also be noted, that on the exhaust side there is a lip, see the scribed mark, intentionally left all around the head to help prevent exhaust gas backflow and with a cast short runner manifold, I think this will be imparitive.





When I meant standard valve, I meant in size. My first setup had a 32mm Supertech exhaust valve. The first person I let grind them did a pretty terrible job.
Old 10-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Spoolin,Oct 16 2009, 11:50 AM
I think its a waste of time and money to port this head unless you're going for 1000 whp. At that time, you would be swapping to a race intake manifold, 3 inch charge piping, etc anyway.

A three angle valve job won't hurt the head flow and is only necessary for correct valve sealing to to head. Why would you say or think a three angle valve job would hurt the head or its flow?
Why would it be a waste? I did not work my head because of its flow limits. I worked the head to increase CFM through a wide range of lift. I will have to work the engine less as well as need to run less boost to achieve desired hp levels. Also a lot of money went into using CB seats to extract heat from the valves. Supertech valves worked out pretty well for me but head engine builder liked the Ferrea valves better in terms of cycle life. Like dsddcd said, heat takes a toll on the exhaust valves and anyone that wants to run endurance type racing or road will likely stress those parts out. So the point of this is not only to increase power. For 90% of people tho, I agree with you, keep it simple. What I was getting at with the 3 angle valve job is that I have seen 3-4 different people do them and have really done a terrible job. One has to be picky when it comes to someone touching your head but if done right can net good gains.
Old 09-09-2010, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Spoolin,Oct 15 2009, 11:26 PM
Thanks. I just wanted him to see what he can get a good build for. I believe its very necessary if you plan on going over 500 whp and want it to live for a long time. Mike Laskey at Laskey Racing is where you can get all the build parts for at s great price. I got all I listed here from him for $675 and he is awesome to do business with.
Is this stuff still the best bang for the buck? Still on everything stock Ap1 engine w 90k, and want to make it more reliable. I won't ever go over 600 whp.
Old 09-09-2010, 12:55 PM
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Yes
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