S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Replacing the center cross member

Thread Tools
 
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #21  
ghettocrxsi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 2
From: Portland oregon
Default

Yes I have replaced them on crashed cars, if you go to airgas you can buy spot weld drill bits.
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #22  
siadam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
Default

Originally Posted by ghettocrxsi
Yes I have replaced them on crashed cars, if you go to airgas you can buy spot weld drill bits.
I've heard of em, but it's always a big deal to get down there before they close, I'm a 9-5 guy.

I picked up a couple good dewalt metal bits. So that shouldn't be an issue I'm hoping.

Gonna start on it tomorrow.


Sent from my iPad2 using Tapatalk
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:50 PM
  #23  
passmans2kny's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,651
Likes: 0
From: huntington long island
Default

use some cutting lube so u dont dull the new bits u just got, good luck i wanna see how it comes out
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2011 | 11:29 PM
  #24  
ghettocrxsi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 2
From: Portland oregon
Default

The spot welds are not too deep so they drill out pretty easy.
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 07:47 AM
  #25  
siadam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
Default

Originally Posted by ghettocrxsi
The spot welds are not too deep so they drill out pretty easy.

Yea I noticed that.

I drilled them out on one side.

Did the ones on top, and the 5 or so on each side, and the thing didn't budge. I'm going to stop and pickup a one size bigger drill bit, I'm thinking I didn't go big enough.

If it still doesn't come out, I'll just saw-zaw the center, then bend it back/forth.
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:11 AM
  #26  
passmans2kny's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,651
Likes: 0
From: huntington long island
Default

spot welds on the bottom?
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #27  
Soul Coughing's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13,494
Likes: 71
From: Chiswick
Default

Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #28  
siadam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
Default

Originally Posted by Soul Coughing
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?

I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 11:46 AM
  #29  
Soul Coughing's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 13,494
Likes: 71
From: Chiswick
Default

Originally Posted by siadam
Originally Posted by Soul Coughing' timestamp='1312389417' post='20843138
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?

I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.
I was just curious where you were going to relocate the support to. Sounds like you'll reinstall it correctly, i just didn't want you to lose an important reinforcement.
Reply
Old Aug 3, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #30  
siadam's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
Default

Originally Posted by Soul Coughing
Originally Posted by siadam' timestamp='1312390659' post='20843210
[quote name='Soul Coughing' timestamp='1312389417' post='20843138']
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?

I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.
I was just curious where you were going to relocate the support to. Sounds like you'll reinstall it correctly, i just didn't want you to lose an important reinforcement.
[/quote]

Yea, no way I'd leave it out. Unless it was a drag car, (maybe). I intend to drive this on the street, corner carve it and the like.

I have a feeling this will be even more strong than what the factory had.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:49 PM.