On a scale of 1-10 ( 1 Super Easy - 10 Extreme Difficulty), I'd rate this a 6-7. Only b/c it takes some tools, and alot of patience. It's not hard per say, just have to take your time.

This is a simple DIY, but is no means the only or best way, just what I did. I took some phone pictures along the way to help show what you watch out for.

I'm sure this can be done with the motor in, although it makes it infinitely better with it already out. To make it even easier, the subframe/motor cradle whatever you want to call it, can be dropped out the bottom, to give you even more room. If you leave the subframe in like I did, get a small piece of metal, I used some 16ga steel leftover from my catch can, and layed it across the steering rack/pinion/whatever to keep it from getting damaged. There is a plastic plug on the drivers side you don't want to break/cut. I also pulled the radiator as well but left the a/c condenser.

I went to Lowes, and bought several 7/32" Dewalt drill bits to drill out the spot welds on the side of the mounts, and a 1/4" bit to finish the job once the pilot was drilled.


A quick picture of the tools I used.
Small hammer - used w/chisels
5lb sledge w/the hammer coming off, gorilla tape to the rescue !
Metal Chisels
File - filed down a few rough edges underneath before bolting back the sway bar.
Saw-zaw
Drill & appropriate sized bits
Ratchet & sockets (10mm/17mm)
Screw driver - helped pry

Onto the pictures!


This is the front sway bar. There are 2, 17mmm bolts that hold each end in place, remove them on both sides, and roll the bar down, it will sit there until you are done.



I didn't take a picture of this, but I took my saw-zaw and cut on each of the black lines. It got the middle piece out to give me room to work, and still left enough room to hit it with a hammer and pry it out. Also, before you start cutting, there is a C bracket that holds the lower radiator hose attached to the bottom of the drivers side crossmember. A single 10mm bolt holds it in place. Remove it for later use.



Here is the before picture of the crossmember in place. I had to notch a part of it earlier in the year for my turbo manifold (one-off piece).



Here you can see the drilled out spot welds. 3 on one side, and I beleive 4 on the other, and 4 on top. You can tell whats a spot weld, there will be a round indentation in the metal bracket. Drills out fairly easy w/a nice drill and a new bit too!


Once all the spot welds are drilled out, I took a 5lb sledge and beat the snot out of it. However, you'll need to either cut the top bracket off, or bend it out of the way, b/c it will catch the top frame rails and keep the bracket from moving.


Here you will see the piece of metal I used to protect the soft rubber boot. As I was tearing the bracket out, I didn't want a piece to tear the boot below.


Removed the metal sheet to show the boot.


Before I could completely remove the bracket, I had to chisel the bottom part of the bracket off, which means jacking up the car in front, and removing the respective tire on the side your working on it is held in place with 2 spot welds, that I couldn't drill out b/c of the subframe. Before you start to chisel, I'd suggest you remove the mount that holds the ABS wire in place, it's a single 10mm bolt. I used blue painters tape to hold it out of the way while I was working.


This came off rather easy. Drive the chisel between the frame and the mount, and it pops right off.


Here you can see the passenger side section removed.


Same process as above on the drivers side mount. I had to take special care to not hit the a/c hoses and a few electrical wires. Take your time! I actually did one side one day, and the other the next evening to break it up.


Here is another picture of me "helping" it along with a hammer. On this one, I had to use the saw-zaw to cut and seperate the top bracket from the mount, and then just peeled it off later. I was having a hard time bending it out of the way w/the a/c line in place.


Completely removed!!


Here is a picture of the crossmember out of the car. I cut it in the middle at first, realized that wasn't enough, cut closer the second time and learned my lesson and cut closer on the drivers side.


Completely removed from another angle.

After I was done, took some primer and black paint and sprayed the area underneath where the bracket was that the swar bar bolted up to prevent it from rusting. I then bolted the front sway bar back in, and put the ABS mount back in place. Put the tires on, and lowered it back down.

I'm going to work on the replacement cross member over the next couple of weeks, after the motor is in so I can figure out where exactly I want it to go.

Best of luck.

 

Sweeet!!! I like that a lot. Great Diy, Im going to start mine on Friday

 

Thanks for sharing though its put me right off! way too much work !

Why cant it just un bolt like the forward bumper bar ( no smart answer required!)

 

Out of interest how much does that chunk of scrap weigh?

 

I haven't weighed it yet, but to my surprise it's not all that heavy.

I was thinking of making it bolt in, but w/the shock tower, and upper a-arms on the other side I don't think it will be that easy, so I'll just weld it in once I get the motor situation and figure out where I want it exactly for clearances and such.

 

How many drill bits did you go through?

 

I bought 3, 7/32" and broke 2 of them, both my fault. I had one already, so I used the one I had, and the new one I bought. Realistically you could do the entire thing with 1, if you didn't break it, but 2 would make it quicker.

The 1/4" I bought 2, and broke 1 of those as well.

Don't get in a hurry, keep your frill square to the hole your drilling and you'll be fine.

 

nice work, I'm at the same point ur at with this project now

 

I really hope I can get this motor finished up and back in the car so I can finish the crossmember.

What idea do you have to replace it with?


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Update? Did you use round bar/tube? Will start my engine build very soon and will start with this.