Replacing the Pistons
Originally Posted by m R g S r,Jul 13 2010, 09:35 AM
just build a spare motor, with fresh bearings etc. then sell the old one. you should be able to make most of the $$ back.
With the shady things going down with some members on this forum there is now way I am going to trust a motor unless I can see it andhave some sort of gaurntee.
Originally Posted by siadam,Jul 13 2010, 11:31 AM
I think I'm just going to go back to stock w/the motor..not going anything major, although I still haven't gotten mine apart, hopefully get to it today.
plus be kinda cool to actually see someone use these pistons and push it.
So now the question now is which Piston, the 9.5:1 or 8:9:1 and what parts/tools I am going to need.
The next question is the rod bearings, there is a color chart that Honda uses but I have no idea how to choose the correct bearing. Does anyone have any reference to this.
Parts Needed
Piston
Wristpins
Pistons Rings
Rod Bearings (Which Color)
Rod Bolts
Factory Head Gasket Set
Tools
Plastiguage
Piston Ring File
Piston Ring Compressor to Slide the Pistons into the Bore
Link the the Mahle piston thread
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=790478
The next question is the rod bearings, there is a color chart that Honda uses but I have no idea how to choose the correct bearing. Does anyone have any reference to this.
Parts Needed
Piston
Wristpins
Pistons Rings
Rod Bearings (Which Color)
Rod Bolts
Factory Head Gasket Set
Tools
Plastiguage
Piston Ring File
Piston Ring Compressor to Slide the Pistons into the Bore
Link the the Mahle piston thread
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=790478
I didn't even plastigauge the bearing clearences when I put my motor together I just used what the Honda color/number system recommended. And my oil pressure is perfect now. The bearing color code system is all explained in a chart in the repair manual. I have the manual on PDF I can send you. It's very helpful for a bunch of stuff.
Originally Posted by m R g S r,Jul 13 2010, 09:29 PM
I didn't even plastigauge the bearing clearences when I put my motor together I just used what the Honda color/number system recommended. And my oil pressure is perfect now. The bearing color code system is all explained in a chart in the repair manual. I have the manual on PDF I can send you. It's very helpful for a bunch of stuff.
here ya go...took screen shots from the pdf...hopefully you can read them...
the only thing thats gay about honda bearings is the price difference. standard size costs less than the smaller/larger bearings, which makes no sense. but majestic still has good prices, i think i got all the bearings for my motor for around $250 or so.


the only thing thats gay about honda bearings is the price difference. standard size costs less than the smaller/larger bearings, which makes no sense. but majestic still has good prices, i think i got all the bearings for my motor for around $250 or so.


Are you yanking the block and honing the cylinders? I'm certainly no expert engine builder, but I've always been told that you really should rehone the cylinders before dropping in new pistons.
While plastigauging the bearings may be a little more work, it costs next to nothing to do, and will help you sleep at night knowing the clearances checked out perfectly and all is well (seeing a spun a rod/main bearing is a sad day). I remember the first time I assembled a short block, and thinking how (relatively) simple it really is (many people make it sound like black magic), although there are a lot of little details and steps you have to follow. Make sure the pistons are facing the right side, each piston is matched to the correct cylinder, apply moly grease to the bearings and oil to surfaces, and everything has to be spot on clearance wise. Oh ya, before popping the piston in place, oil up the cylinder walls. Just a few things off the top of my head, I can't remember if the service manual has all the details..
I do agree that there's nothing quite like an oem shortblock from honda. You see so many "built blocks" from many different "reputable" places having various problems. Whether that's due to the build or the tune of the car is often times unknown.
While plastigauging the bearings may be a little more work, it costs next to nothing to do, and will help you sleep at night knowing the clearances checked out perfectly and all is well (seeing a spun a rod/main bearing is a sad day). I remember the first time I assembled a short block, and thinking how (relatively) simple it really is (many people make it sound like black magic), although there are a lot of little details and steps you have to follow. Make sure the pistons are facing the right side, each piston is matched to the correct cylinder, apply moly grease to the bearings and oil to surfaces, and everything has to be spot on clearance wise. Oh ya, before popping the piston in place, oil up the cylinder walls. Just a few things off the top of my head, I can't remember if the service manual has all the details..
I do agree that there's nothing quite like an oem shortblock from honda. You see so many "built blocks" from many different "reputable" places having various problems. Whether that's due to the build or the tune of the car is often times unknown.
Originally Posted by SlowTeg,Jul 14 2010, 12:57 PM
Are you yanking the block and boring/honing the cylinders?
While plastigauging the bearings may be a little more work, it costs next to nothing to do, and will help you sleep at night knowing the clearances checked out perfectly and all is well (seeing a spun a rod/main bearing is a sad day). I remember the first time I assembled a short block, and thinking how (relatively) simple it really is (many people make it sound like black magic), although there are a lot of little details and steps you have to follow. Make sure the pistons are facing the right side, each piston is matched to the correct cylinder, apply moly grease to the bearings and oil to surfaces, and everything has to be spot on clearance wise. Oh ya, before popping the piston in place, oil up the cylinder walls. Just a few things off the top of my head, I can't remember if the service manual has all the details..
I do agree that there's nothing quite like an oem shortblock from honda. You see so many "built blocks" from many different "reputable" places having various problems. Whether that's due to the build or the tune of the car is often times unknown.
While plastigauging the bearings may be a little more work, it costs next to nothing to do, and will help you sleep at night knowing the clearances checked out perfectly and all is well (seeing a spun a rod/main bearing is a sad day). I remember the first time I assembled a short block, and thinking how (relatively) simple it really is (many people make it sound like black magic), although there are a lot of little details and steps you have to follow. Make sure the pistons are facing the right side, each piston is matched to the correct cylinder, apply moly grease to the bearings and oil to surfaces, and everything has to be spot on clearance wise. Oh ya, before popping the piston in place, oil up the cylinder walls. Just a few things off the top of my head, I can't remember if the service manual has all the details..
I do agree that there's nothing quite like an oem shortblock from honda. You see so many "built blocks" from many different "reputable" places having various problems. Whether that's due to the build or the tune of the car is often times unknown.
I will defiantly plastiguage the rod mains to make sure.
As for the bore surfaces, I will be lightly prepping them for the sole reason to help seat the rings.
Rather than Moly lube I actually have a sticky red lubricant that I have always used when building the motor.
I plan to read the manual a few times to make sure that I meet all the Honda specs. Really the only thing I am worried about is cutting the rings which is something I have never done but should be very easy.
Thanks You and if you think of any other tips I would greatly appreciate them.
As for the built blocks I am not sure what the deal is but I just don't have any faith. Personally I think it is the car/user/tuner but it is hard to say.










