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Originally Posted by fatjoe10,Feb 5 2009, 12:53 PM
Could you clarify the part where they ask you to pipe out Permatex on the gasket? Were they referring to the SCE ICS specifically for our application? as far as I know those gaskets get installed dry.
For ARP torque specs, it will be set to 80lbs with their included moly lube. If using motor oil I believe the torque spec is higher, something around 120.
Now here's a very good question. If I was to use brand new OEM head bolts, they are supposed to get an extra 90 degree turn. However, when installing the ICS gasket, I am required to loosen them 90 degrees, and retorque. Now that the bolt is stretched, if I was to go back to the original 90 degrees, wouldn't that result in excessive in clamping force?
Lastly, I will be checking the head for warpage before I put it back on. Even if the head is assumed to be unwarped on the block, sometimes messing up the sequence during removal may warp it. Also I am getting finished to 50ra or better for extra insurance. For installation I recommend you use a beam-type torque wrench. The "clicky" type tends to be innacurate and often results in overtorquing.
I mistakenly called it a Titan and it is not, just an ICS, the sealant is in place of the Titan sealing material.
No, the key is to yeild them, once you hit the point of yeild they will not produce more clamping force.
Originally Posted by Soul Coughing,Jan 31 2009, 06:39 AM
i have had 3 3mm InlinePro head gaskets. Each head gasket has lasted 20-25k miles. This equates to 1 year of DD the car. Each time the head is removed it is decked and checked for straightness. First time the head gasket was installed, it was done by billman250, a well respected Metro member. That head gasket had no copper spray and lasted about 20k miles. The second head gasket was installed with copper spray and lasted about 25k miles. I just changed my own head gasket for the 3rd time and didn't use any copper spray. InlinePro's prerogative is that its a bad tune that is causing the head gasket's to fail, while my tuner believes if it was a bad tune, it would have failed within the first 200-500 miles, not 25k hard miles. Next time the headgasket fails, i will either give this headgasket a shot, or finally go built motor with a stock HG so i don't have to worry about it anymore.
Awesome info, could you give us some info on your setup for those that don't already know. This is scary for me, changing a headgasket once a year to me is not a good solution, that sounds not very fun in the very least. I'm looking to use a HG on my upcoming build and need to make a decision before I start buying.
Heres some pictures of the cometic 2mm gasket. I drilled out 3 of the spacers so I could get a better look at the layers. 3 of the layers are embossed, 1 is not. the outer laters are .01 thick the center layers are .036 and .021 for a total of .077 in or 1.955 mm thick not including any embossing. The inner layers look like they
have been sanded with fine grit paper before the emboss process. I found some micro dents and high spots in the thickest layer less than .005 i imagine. I also found some dirt lodged between the layers. This was a new gasket too.
I think you still may be okay. They key is not to detonate. If you can spray without detonation you will be good to go. I would highly recomend a progressive controller to modulate nitrous at lower RPM and taper it on the top end as boost comes in.
i have an ace up my sleeve too lol hopefully itll b in the car by summerish
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