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Yea, I want to keep this at the top too as I will be installing beginning tomorrow I think.

 

The fuel pump only took me about 2 hours.

MUCH easier to position yourself when you take out the driver seat and sit on the console.

I took the rear tray out through the trunk. The instructions have 3 push-pins in back, but there are 4 up front, too. All in all, getting the rear tray out wasn't hard.

Putting the fuel pump into the assembly was easy. There are 8 bolts in the instructions for the fuel pump assembly, but there are really 10...9x8mm, and 1x10mm nut.

When I was worrying about my ability to install the SC, my primary worry was the fuel pump. Next is the crank bolt (but I can really take that in to get done so no biggie).

 

Did the crank pulley today, along with the assembly and installation of the supercharger, including the oil drain, plus an oil change.

I don't know why people make such a big deal about the crank pulley. I found it to be pretty painless. With my tools the bolt came right off with a tug after spraying PB Blaster on it.

I used the following:

2 breaker bars. One bigger one from Amazon (23"), and 1 18" from Home Depot. Also, got a length of 3/4"x36" pipe from Home Depot and it slipped right over their breaker bar. Also used the Powerbuilt pulley tool on the Amazon breaker. I used a 6-point 19" deep socket.

I put the Powerbuilt/Amazon bar on the pulley, and supported it on the arm of a jack stand put on the cross-member (keep an eye on it...you don't want to crush any lines!! Passenger side for the jack stand to remove, driver (LHD) to install. Then I gave a tug with the other bar/pipe. Be careful as you don't want to have the bolt "give" and smash your fender!!! I just gave really quick forceful tugs, and I think it broke loose with a crack after just a few times. I then swapped the pulley and installed it at 192 lb-ft in a similar manner that I took it off (though with constant force on the torque wrench).

I ordered a new crank bolt from Majestic just in case there was trouble, and went ahead and used it. It really wasn't needed, though.

The supercharger install was not too bad, but the 4.8" stage 1 pulley is VERY, VERY hard to get the belt attached (may want to pre-stretch the belt). I would also advise taking off the oil drain seal and putting the 1/2" hose/clamp on before installing the supercharger unit...it was no fun trying to get that hose on the fitting I couldn't even see with oily hands! I would also put the serpentine belt back on before you mount the supercharger.

I also started it up (no aftercooler or pump yet, and no filter, just throttle body). It runs fine (although loud, lol), thought the oil light came on for a split-second upon initial. I guess some of the oil was diverted to fill the supercharger unit...it was literally 0.2 seconds so no worries. I guess that happens on an engine with a new fill where the VTEC solenoid was drained and the TCT was changed (did that too).

I was worried about the pulley and fuel pump, and neither was really an issue. Hopefully my tips help someone who just got theirs, too

 

Thanks. Good pointers! I plan on doing mine next weekend, maybe...

 

I did the after-cooler, pump, and heat exchanger today.

It wasn't hard, but it took me a long time to do (7+ hours). I was working at a pretty leisurely pace. The air pump is difficult to work around, but not really that hard...it would be nice to have a 06-08 which doesn't have one!

I now only need to do the FPR and the fuel/vtec/map module. I started it up and did the coolant to make sure all was OK. It idles fine, but I don't dare take it over 2K RPM. There's some idle noise from the blower itself, but it's normal for Paxton Centrifugals, and it's quite muffled with the hood shut. Nice deep whistle, though!

All together, I think I put in 20 hours, and it looks like I have 2 more. It's hot here in FL so I was taking a lot of breaks for water.

One thing I didn't figure out from right away is the 2 brackets for the heat exchanger...one goes in front and one behind. I also forgot to reinstall the hose from the vacuum tank to the top hardline, so it was a little harder after the SC/AC was mounted.

The 6 hex bolts for the volute...2 are at the bottom and I couldn't reach them. I will have to jack up the car and do them from there. It's for clocking the blower outlet, btw. They don't need much torque at all.

Another tip is for wiring the pump, I'd start under the hood and fish the wire down. Putting it into the interior through a grommet was easy...there's an oval-shape one with plenty of room at the left-most side. I now know where I'll route the amp power when I get around to it

For the aftercooler, I used antifreeze, distilled water, and water wetter. I did about 4 ounces of water wetter (full gallon jug), 15-20% antifreeze, and the rest water. The after-cooler takes just shy of a half gallon. For draining coolant, I put a glass under the car and drained it so that I didn't have to jack it up for that step...worked fine. I used the remaining half-gallon of coolant/water/water wetter mix to fill the radiator's reservoir tank, and I have the rest saved in a gallon jug which I'll use in a week or so when I check coolant again.

 

regarding the top radiator hose adapter piece (for the engine radiator).. any way to install it without having to bleed the coolant?
Like clamping off the top hose close to the motor so no air gets in? When I squeeze the hose (no homo ) It feels like there is just air in there anyway.
I was thinking I could pump a little coolant out through the radiator cap hole , clamp past the point you cut, disconnect the hose from radiator, cut & reconnect, then refill what I took out. Sound plausible or bad idea?

 

Sounds plausible. I don't think there is much flowing through that top hose...not enough to fill it anyway.

I had to make so many micro-cuts to that S-shaped hose to get it right...it's long on both ends.

Bleeding the coolant is a really little deal...it's easy. And the glass I used to drain the coolant worked without having to jack up. It took about 4 glasses to make the half-gallon. The drain is a simple "faucet" thing in the BACK middle of the radiator (took me a while to find it LOL) and there's a lot of room to reach down and turn it. Do this with the engine off obviously.

According the Billman250, the rear bleed bolt doesn't work right anyway, so I just did the front bolt. The instructions from the Honda service manual just didn't seem to do the trick.

I left the motor running with the bolt loose and waited for it to start streaming out fluid. It'll sputter/bubble fluid a few times, but close it when the fluid actually comes out constantly. It can take a little while. Leave a rag around the bolt. BE CAREFUL OF THE BELTS!!!! I did it from the side with a 12mm socket with extension to keep my hands well away from the belts.

That said, I can't really see why your method wouldn't work. The only worry is damaging the hose via clamping I guess. The instructions as-followed mean you won't be dripping coolant all over the engine area. Not one drop came out for me.

 

Thanks for the insight. Ive bled the coolant 3 times on this car from doing motor swaps and it was always a big PIA. But what you described isnt that bad.
Dont remember if my Mishimoto radiator has a faucet style drain at the bottom though, I think its just a drain bolt.

 

My Full Blown radiator just has a drain bolt. Not a faucet like bolt. It's still pretty easy to get too. My question is about the heat exchanger. How much of a pain is it to drain that system? I have the OEM front lip with a Coastal Metals lip protector, so taking my front bumper off and putting it back on is a real PITA. I live in Columbia, SC and while it gets very hot here during the summer, it freezes during the winter. I know the ideal cooling method is just distiller water and Water Wetter but if it's a pain to change out then I'll just run the mix you ran with all three.