hello everyone

i have a sleeved block from Benson and i have a comptech s/c @ 15psi

after almost 5 months of searching about what it seems to be an electrical interference to aem water temp, we decided to ignore it and tune the engine
when we reached 8000 rpm while tuning the water went hot 100c and we stoped.
we added 500ml of water and that worried me a lot.
the car didnt get hot again until i reved it up to 8000rpm while returning home.
then, water started splashing on my windshield and it was from the container next to the radiator
before this while tuning we noticed that even @ 3000rpm with actually no boost 0,1 psi the car gained 7whp when setting vtec at that point ,
which i think is not normal.

today we opened the engine to see if the sleeves are in place and thank god they are. (because of the water temp)
we are also going to check if the timing was correct. (because of the low vtec )
we sended the head for resurfacing,
but we unbolted the arp head studs by hand. they were very loose.
is this an issue ? what problems can this cause?
does this have something to do with the hot water temp?

i have read here about different torques with different gaskets , people calling arp and been given different answers and some others pushing over 500hp with stock head studs .
i started thinking of using the stock ones

 

What is everyone doing for the AEM EMS water gauge fix?

 

install a real guage that works!

 

modifry sells a converter for the stock coolant gauge. Or you buy a serial gauge and log the coolant temps from there. Or you get a new temp sensor and use that instead

 

Lucky they didn't completly loosen.


As I've been saying, stick with OEM. ARP studs offer nothing better over OEM and have failed numerous times (yet some people will still use them...its beyond me).

 

Almost sounds like your water is leaking through, odd symptoms. When I re-bolt up I'm gonna have to pick between ARP and OEM. I've heard good and bad on both. I think I'll choose OEM however I'll use NEW oem of course not reusing the same stuff it's been bolted with. I hear OEM is only good for about 14psi though before they will allow the head separate. I plan on 14psi and a 2mm cometic so it shouldn't be a prob. for me.

 

I run OEM 21psi, cody from lovfab said it was only good to 14psi and that was YEARS ago. Since then, 14+psi has been used MANY times further prooving the point that the ARP studs dont make sense to use.

 

I think your studs might have been under-torqued