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"It is hard to tell from the video but I saw a lot of mid to high 12s. It should hover right around 12. Other than that, I did not see any issues with the FVM from what I could make out. If we sold you another FVM module, we would not accept it back as it is an electronic component. You are welcome to ship your unit back to us and I can test the flash sequence myself. If there is an issue, we will reflash it. At this time I do not think we have tested it enough to consider it a bad part. Once the a/f ratio is down where it needs to be, we would then need to check the flash sequence, and test the VTEC wiring with a test light to see exactly when it is engaging VTEC. This would really answer the question immediately. There is normally a slight point around there where it gets a little leaner, however it is not something that can be corrected, as the stage 1 kit comes as it is, and is not a tunable kit."
The lean spike is only easy to see when I view it frame by frame on a video player like VLC. But I see it in every video so it's happening consistently. That's good to hear it is not an issue if it's just a short spike.
I am going to install a vtec indicator light and and richen it up more. Kinda getting nervous because I'm am 7 turns in and will maybe need to put my stock cat on. I can't get an fvm to test from SOS without buying one. Will keep you all posted with a video. If someone is willing to let me borrow their known good fvm, I would be happy to pay shipping fees as well as money on top.
In the video, the 0:18 mark is where the lean spike happens. I took a screen shot of it here:
It's about 6200rpm and 61 mph (gauge is showing 51 because it is transitioning to a 6). Here I am at 13.8 and Ive seen it in the 14's up to 14.8. Do you guys think this is something I should be worried about?
No I wouldn't worry about it. I see the same spike with my car at the same rpm. If the engine backs off/sputters/chokes when it happens, then its actually a problem influencing the condition of the engine. A real lean condition will do that, especially when you add pressure into the cylinders from external boost. So no, i wouldn't worry about it. Part of effective troubleshooting is concentrating on one thing at a time, making sure your fvm is working is the goal here. You can add a little more fuel pressure in the meantime for added safety. 13.5afr is a bit lean in your 3500-5k range, so adding another .5afr would be more ideal and that will bring your lean spike down a bit at 6200rpm. ** remember your afr will fluctuate depending on ambient temps for that day, and your car will run leaner when its not quite up to full running temp/hot under the hood. So you should/will get used to accounting for that and keep your fuel pressure either on the richer side to allow for cooler ambient/weather fluctuations, or get used to tweaking it more often to keep optimum performance.
Last edited by s2000Junky; Dec 27, 2016 at 06:43 PM.
No I wouldn't worry about it. I see the same spike with my car at the same rpm. If the engine backs off/sputters/chokes when it happens, then its actually a problem influencing the condition of the engine. A real lean condition will do that, especially when you add pressure into the cylinders from external boost. So no, i wouldn't worry about it. Part of effective troubleshooting is concentrating on one thing at a time, making sure your fvm is working is the goal here. You can add a little more fuel pressure in the meantime for added safety. 13.5afr is a bit lean in your 3500-5k range, so adding another .5afr would be more ideal and that will bring your lean spike down a bit at 6200rpm. ** remember your afr will fluctuate depending on ambient temps for that day, and your car will run leaner when its not quite up to full running temp/hot under the hood. So you should/will get used to accounting for that and keep your fuel pressure either on the richer side to allow for cooler ambient/weather fluctuations, or get used to tweaking it more often to keep optimum performance.
Cool thanks for the advice. It's been cold here in Colorado I shouldn't even be driving the car lol. Most of my runs were done 30-45F and this video was done at 35F.
Cool thanks for the advice. It's been cold here in Colorado I shouldn't even be driving the car lol. Most of my runs were done 30-45F and this video was done at 35F.
Right, so keep in mind on a normal 50-60F day, your current fuel adjustment is going to be on target.
On a hot 90F summer day your going to be richer then ideal for performance, mostly in the low/mid 11's across the band and the car will feel like a slug compared to now.
Last edited by s2000Junky; Dec 27, 2016 at 07:02 PM.
I got the indicator light installed. It turns on at 5200rpm so I think the fvm is working. I read that high altitude makes vtec engage later (I'm at 1 mile high). However, it flashes then goes solid so it's not a perfect on-off. I'm not really sure what the issue is or if this is normal. The oil level is good. I checked continuity from vtec solenoid to ecu and its good. From the previous video you can hear a slight stutter a bit around where the vtec engages but it's not because it's lean. The af ratio was low 12s.
Also got the 7 psi pulley on. It did not lean it out too much. I went from 11.1 to 11.5 at max boost. I turned up fuel pressure 3/4 turns in and now I'm right at 13:1 and under at low rpms. Upping the fuel pressure did not help the lean spike at 6200rpm too much I don't believe. I need to take another video to verify.
I am happy with the performance I have gotten with 7 psi without dynoing it. Do I need to check my fuel pressure at this point? I am thinking to get a gauge to see max fuel pressure but how would you see this while driving the car at 9k rpm? The gauges I've seen are mounted on the fuel rail. Below is my current fuel adjustment:
that red top "FPR" is a HORRIBLE POS, which shocks me SOS does not include a nice TRUE FPR from aero.
GET a REAL FPR!!! Aero1000 or something similar, problem will go away, on 6psi by redline, you dont have to run super rich, your barley at 3-4psi during the majority of the rpm range.
Get kpro, or EMS, and get a REAL FPR. First thing i did was threw that POS in the trash when it arrived lol.
...but how would you see this while driving the car at 9k rpm? The gauges I've seen are mounted on the fuel rail.
1.) While on a dyno.
2.) Remove hood, mount GoPro at fuel rail.
3.) Use in-line gauge spliced into the HP line between the FPR and rail (temporary setup) and run the line such that the gauge sits right at the windshield so your passenger can see it.
