OP make sure your belt isn't slipping. With a 1psi increase from where you were, you should see a leaner gap then just 11.1 to 11.5afr. it should be at least double that. Or maybe you made the rrfpr correction first and misread where you started? There is a slight bell curve on boost ramp up, so your going to get the biggest gains/afr differential at peak rpm vs down lower depending on what rpm you where monitoring your afr from.

Also, just an fyi from experience, that post adjustment you have with just a couple threads showing above the lock nut is maxed out territory and what happens when you get this low, is the internal pre load spring gets bottomed out inside against the diaphragm and can start to deform it causing erratic fueling/behavior, so be mindful of that. If you have any room at all to back it off some, you may want to do that. Running it pegged like that over a long period of time will eventually cause the spring to get weak and the rrfpr will lose some of its ability to perform. Its also the winter months right now, so your going to have it adjusted much more now to run safe fueling then when temps warm up, so keep that in mind too. 12.5 afr up top is fine, but not if that puts you too lean lower in the rpm range which may be a compromise you have to work with. Since you are starting to learn where the compromises are, you will figure out what your best balance point is on everything to run safest/best. Then this summer you can do it all over again lol But at least you will have learned what to look for and can make your adjustments much quicker.

 

Actually they do exactly what they are supposed to do, which is why these have been successfully relied on in stage one kits since comptech included them in their kits over 15 years ago. These are actually externally adjustable unlike the rrpfr that Vortech included in their kits which were calibrated from VT and always ran lean, in this case I would agree with you. Don't ask more then what the equipment was designed to do, and it works. Some people don't want to run more then 7psi. In that case, investing in a tuner kit with full ems from an otherwise well designed base stage, doesn't make much sense. Everyone has to learn and go through an initial set up and bit of trial and error to get everything calibrated on these base kits after instillation. That's part of the appeal with these kits, the DIY guy can do this out of his garage with no tuner assistance. Just a little coaching from us who have been through the process and lived with it day to day. Later, if the boost bug bites and the DYI guy has more money to spend and is willing to open up a can of worms on the next stage that is out of his hands and into a tuners, then that's an option some may decide to take, but its not required with a supercharger, unlike a turbo.

 

I think you may be right on belt slipping. Boost gauge was still showing 5 psi. Does the vtec engagement sound normal to you with it flashing then solid?

I'm going to back off the rrfpr until it gets into the 50s for more adjustments. It's tough to get the low rpm below 13s with this kit. Hopefully I will find a happy medium on the new pulley. I got too excited to installing it lol.

 

I found a vid from 6 years ago (or a few months after I installed the kit) where I captured my AFRs while I was going up hill in 4th gear. This was the base 6 psi or 4.4" pulley setup. The video notes that I saw a peak boost of 6.7 per my gauge. Start the vid around 17 seconds or so. I have since gone to the 4.2" or 7 psi setup and added the SOS fuel pump wiring kit. I have a MY2005.


I guess I deleted all of my recent slow-mo vids which were better quality as well.

I just took a quick peek at my RRFPR and I have more threads showing for whatever that's worth. Do you know what your fuel pressure is set at while at atmospheric pressure (i.e., car idling with vacuum hose removed)?

 

I don't know my fuel pressure yet but I ordered a gauge so I'll know soon.

 

There is about 30psi rising rate increase. So make sure your idle pressure is no more then 65psi and your right there on max. If your over this and afr is still questionable, you need to think about alternatives.

 

Do you mean 65 psi with vacuum connected or disconnected? My current fuel setting is just 1/4 turn past the first image I posted and I'm at 62 psi with vacuum and 74-76 psi with vacuum disconnected. I have boost gauge and a tee to the rrfpr so I'll try taking off the tee to see if it'll help af ratio any.

The car stutters a bit at vtec ~5200-5500rpm but not because of being lean. The vtec indicator light flashes then stays solid. Does anyone know if this is normal? Or is vtec supposed turn on as a solid signal?

 

Regarding the base or Stage 1 kit, the RRFPR should be preset by SOS. For reference, the ap1 should have a baseline of 50 psi (let car idle and remove vacuum hose from fuel regulator) and 58 psi for the ap2. I can't recall what mine is currently set at, but I can take a look the next time I start my car up. It's been a few months it seems It's in the 60s I'm sure. Before I went to 7 psi, I already had a test pipe and bored throttle body so I had to increase my fuel pressure from the preset values.

At 6 psi or redline, the fuel pressure curve ends up about 75 psi for the ap1 and 88 psi for the ap2.

 

Connected, as simulated if you were driving the car. Your over, and very well could be experiencing inconsistent injector running at some points in the rpm range. Im wondering if this is the cause of the hiccup your experiencing, because the fvm box is increasing duty above oem tune for the lowered vtec, coupled with too high fuel pressure and the injectors cant handle it. As a test for this, you might try dropping the fuel pressure systematically lower and test the vtec transition where you are getting the current hiccup. Do incrementally until it goes away if it will, being sure to watch your afr not exceeding upper 13's just as a test, and do not rev out much past the problem area to protect engine from going over lean and higher boost. Also if you go too lean you will get hiccup from this too, so why i said upper 13's just to give you some headroom to test for that 4-5 rpm hiccup.

 

If I back the pressure any more ill be at where I was in the video when it's lean lower rpm. There was a hiccup in thst video as well if you pay close attention to 5200rpm. I'm just really struggling with that 4-5k rpm range being lean. After 5k it richen up nicely besides the hiccup at 5200rpm and slight spike at 6200 so I'm not worried about high rpm at all. The 7psi pulley didn't really change the af ratios down low so that is not to blame.

This does not make sense to me. I'm at high altitude and if anything, my car should be running richer. Hopefully I'll be able to get my hands on another fvm or get a reflash for this one to see if it helps because I've read this is the case for several people on the forum and also a guy I contacted on YouTube. If all doesn't work I'll have to hope for warm temperatures and maybe put the stock cat on which I hate because it drones so much.