SOS stage 2, only making 110whp gain. HELP!
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Thanks. Ill try having the 3" exhaust system. Do headers have optimum diameter size also? Again, sorry for the noob question.
I dont think we have Race gas here in the Philippines. Some even told me that pump gas here is notches lower than the pump gas there. Something like a 95oct gas here, if exported there, would only be comparable to your country's 91oct gas. Doesnt make much sense to me. Any thoughts?
You should be seeing 11-12psi with that 4" pulley on that 1200 blower. You sure its the 1200 and not 1220? At any rate, the first thing I ask when this situation comes up is boost verification, was the belt slipping. The belts are not easy to gauge proper tension, and even if not slipping on first initial install, they almost always do shortly after and need at least one follow up tightening after they stretch/break in.
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1379521324' post='22784748
Don't get hung up on numbers.
Nicely done boss! I was really looking forward to numbers like that when I bought my current setup. Ill post data tomorrow. I hope you guys can share info that could make my numbers be at least something close to your setup's output.
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Check your belt tension since its a new install, the belt will stretch a little after break in. Your belt might be slipping.
Is your clutch in good condition? Numbers can be skewed if your clutch is slippin.
Being that you're in PI, are there any other good "reputable" tuners around? Might be scarce...
Is your clutch in good condition? Numbers can be skewed if your clutch is slippin.
Being that you're in PI, are there any other good "reputable" tuners around? Might be scarce...
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Check your belt tension since its a new install, the belt will stretch a little after break in. Your belt might be slipping.
Is your clutch in good condition? Numbers can be skewed of your clutch is slippin.
Being that you're in PI, are there any other good "reputable" tuners around?
Is your clutch in good condition? Numbers can be skewed of your clutch is slippin.
Being that you're in PI, are there any other good "reputable" tuners around?
There are a number of "reputable" tuner names here. However, since S2000s are somewhat "uncommon to rare" here, I dont know if anyone really competent enough to say that they have in-depth experience with tuning s2ks. More so with SOS SCs
I am considering the fact that the temperature,atmospheric pressure, and octane ratings here are making the numbers drop. I just didnt know it would be this drastic. Sigh...
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From: Greenwood, AR
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1379521324' post='22784748
Don't get hung up on numbers.
If you want to be concerned with numbers, it should be the numbers the ECU is showing (calibration/logs). If you're that far off your target, you should already know there is something going on without a dyno.
As stated, Vortech's slip, especially if it is new and you just installed it. The only way I could stop it with my SHO on a 3.2" pulley, was to get a Reichard Racing Pulley and a heavy duty belt that was tightened to hell. My upper main bearing did not live a happy life.
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From: Phoenix
Sorry to hear you're having problems, but this should be easy to diagnose.
1. Post your manifold pressure graph, preferably from the dyno, making sure the that the dyno pressure sensor is calibrated. At peak, we'd expect around 10-11 PSIg at sea level at 9000 RPM. If the pressure is off, you either have a leak or belt slip.
2. If pressure is good, verify engine compression.
3. If manifold pressure and compression is good, either fuel ratio or ignition is off.
Is your fuel rating based on US standards - (R+M)/2 or Euro/Asia standard RON? I would expect this to be RON. If RON, this is a very aggressive pulley for that fuel - which in the US would be around 90-91 octane. If so, this may explain why your tuner is very conservative with ignition timing.
1. Post your manifold pressure graph, preferably from the dyno, making sure the that the dyno pressure sensor is calibrated. At peak, we'd expect around 10-11 PSIg at sea level at 9000 RPM. If the pressure is off, you either have a leak or belt slip.
2. If pressure is good, verify engine compression.
3. If manifold pressure and compression is good, either fuel ratio or ignition is off.
Is your fuel rating based on US standards - (R+M)/2 or Euro/Asia standard RON? I would expect this to be RON. If RON, this is a very aggressive pulley for that fuel - which in the US would be around 90-91 octane. If so, this may explain why your tuner is very conservative with ignition timing.
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Sorry to hear you're having problems, but this should be easy to diagnose.
1. Post your manifold pressure graph, preferably from the dyno, making sure the that the dyno pressure sensor is calibrated. At peak, we'd expect around 10-11 PSIg at sea level at 9000 RPM. If the pressure is off, you either have a leak or belt slip.
2. If pressure is good, verify engine compression.
3. If manifold pressure and compression is good, either fuel ratio or ignition is off.
Is your fuel rating based on US standards - (R+M)/2 or Euro/Asia standard RON? I would expect this to be RON. If RON, this is a very aggressive pulley for that fuel - which in the US would be around 90-91 octane. If so, this may explain why your tuner is very conservative with ignition timing.
1. Post your manifold pressure graph, preferably from the dyno, making sure the that the dyno pressure sensor is calibrated. At peak, we'd expect around 10-11 PSIg at sea level at 9000 RPM. If the pressure is off, you either have a leak or belt slip.
2. If pressure is good, verify engine compression.
3. If manifold pressure and compression is good, either fuel ratio or ignition is off.
Is your fuel rating based on US standards - (R+M)/2 or Euro/Asia standard RON? I would expect this to be RON. If RON, this is a very aggressive pulley for that fuel - which in the US would be around 90-91 octane. If so, this may explain why your tuner is very conservative with ignition timing.
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From: Greenwood, AR
Log the AEM for your manifold pressure or even check boost pressure and vacuum with a boost/vac gauge if you suspect the MAP sensor is not calibrated properly. Compression will have to be tested with a compression tester which will require moving the plugs. Fuel will need to be checked with WBO2 sensor. Timing can be logged if your map is locked.
If you suspect a boost/vacuum leak, you can then pressure test the charge piping/aftercooler/intake tract. I made my own cap with an air compressor fitting and regulated pressure through my air compressor.
If you suspect a boost/vacuum leak, you can then pressure test the charge piping/aftercooler/intake tract. I made my own cap with an air compressor fitting and regulated pressure through my air compressor.
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Log the AEM for your manifold pressure or even check boost pressure and vacuum with a boost/vac gauge if you suspect the MAP sensor is not calibrated properly. Compression will have to be tested with a compression tester which will require moving the plugs. Fuel will need to be checked with WBO2 sensor. Timing can be logged if your map is locked.
If you suspect a boost/vacuum leak, you can then pressure test the charge piping/aftercooler/intake tract. I made my own cap with an air compressor fitting and regulated pressure through my air compressor.
If you suspect a boost/vacuum leak, you can then pressure test the charge piping/aftercooler/intake tract. I made my own cap with an air compressor fitting and regulated pressure through my air compressor.