Comprehension is fundamental..

With that being said, the amount of torque is the output that you really want to know for a clutch's holding power (that's what I usually see them rated at).. I'd guess it's probably safe for closer to 300ft-lbs..

From some other post I've read around, but age and how the clutch was treated before and after boosting would probably subject that number to change..

 

Yeah i agree its a little lazy just wanted to know what the clutch was rated as per the thread.

I'm debating to up the boost, why have i become a boost junkie LOL.

I'm thinking i might just leave it at 10psi and call it a day.

I vaguley recall seeing the stock clutch being rated at 170 lbft at the wheel but i honestly cannot find the thread.

Thanks

 

my stock clutch was perfectely fine when i was at 350whp and 220wtq

 

There are several factors on why some stock clutches seem to hold better then others, removing the mileage/condition factor as one of them. One big one is the weight of the flywheel. A lighter weight flywheel set up creates less rotating inertial to try and clamp onto by the PP and match speed, so typically you will find the older ap1 cars doing better at holding higher boost set ups, also they generally make less trq per the same hp and have no cdv. My ap1 hit 350whp/210trq before starting to slip in the higher gears. I was running a 8lb flywheel on that set up. Also higher/taller gears ie; 3/4/5/6 put more load on the clutch vs the lower gears, so when the clutch starts to hit its limit, you will notice it failing in those gears first.

 

Makes sense Chris, at this moment in time I'm near enough your figures but experienced no slip probably a good 15BHP less at the wheel than you so i think this had made up my mind.

 

MY04 has 34k miles and I had to replace the clutch because it would slip at high RPM's. I've got a Vortech Kit with 316hp/219tq to the wheels. I've got a SPEC Stage 3+ now and couldn't be happier

 

if you have an ap2, change it now. if you have an ap1, you might get away with it. personally, what i would do depending on which i had.

ap1 - id swap clutch for something else. possibly oem disk and act pp, but most likely clutch masters stage 3 like i have or sos sport clutch.

ap2 - swap flywheel for ap1 flywheel, then same thing with clutches as above.

 

My OEM Ap1 clutch lasted a good amount of time when I had nitrous and was launching it every week at the track. That made 256whp. It lasted 15k miles with that setup and about 50k miles altogether. I was surprised it lasted that long and actually didn't start letting go until I was tuning for a 100 shot.