And there went the headgasket!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
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Knock was based on checking plugs, watching the dyno graph, and knock count / voltage in KPro. To clear this up... IT WAS NOT knocking on the dyno, but it may or may not have on the street. I dont't know because I didnt data log.
And also to clear up timing, yes it seems like a lot, BUT every motor is different and every timing table will be different. KPro is not actual timing but only table timing. It will depend on what the actual timing is at the motor and how it syncs up. It also depends on how much the Honda ECU adds in the back ground. While we all know what we have seen to be normal timing, sometimes there are huge differences in one motor/ecu to the next. It's all in what the dyno says its doing, not what we see in the tables. One thing I CAN agree on is that its not the smoothest timing map I've ever seen
And also to clear up timing, yes it seems like a lot, BUT every motor is different and every timing table will be different. KPro is not actual timing but only table timing. It will depend on what the actual timing is at the motor and how it syncs up. It also depends on how much the Honda ECU adds in the back ground. While we all know what we have seen to be normal timing, sometimes there are huge differences in one motor/ecu to the next. It's all in what the dyno says its doing, not what we see in the tables. One thing I CAN agree on is that its not the smoothest timing map I've ever seen
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Dumb question, but if you had a 3mm HG why go back to a stock one?
Also, there seems to be some confusion on whether to use a 3mm or OEM HG on a Turbo application s2000. Which one is better? I see the ARP headstuds are definitely needed.
Also, there seems to be some confusion on whether to use a 3mm or OEM HG on a Turbo application s2000. Which one is better? I see the ARP headstuds are definitely needed.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Lakeland, Florida
Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Sep 27 2010, 08:01 PM
Theres a couple of different torque specs based on which lube they provide you with.
Refer to this thread and look at Scott's and my pictures of our instructions and compare the lube that it says in the instructions with what the torque specs say.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=800917
Refer to this thread and look at Scott's and my pictures of our instructions and compare the lube that it says in the instructions with what the torque specs say.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=800917
i wish you could give rep on this site! lol
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by teamvalorracing,Sep 27 2010, 07:30 PM
^because that would make sense. lol
ip doesnt make the stud, so they dont matter anyway. i literally spoke with the guy in tech at ARP this afternoon for about 15 mins and got all that straight info. cant really misinterpret that or get it wrong.
and the studs are 12mm and 12pt.
ip doesnt make the stud, so they dont matter anyway. i literally spoke with the guy in tech at ARP this afternoon for about 15 mins and got all that straight info. cant really misinterpret that or get it wrong.
and the studs are 12mm and 12pt.
So you would think they could clarify what torque has yielded the longest HG life and put that part of the debate to an end.To be honest I would prefer we all were given the same torque specs, but since some of the headgaskets are failing and we are all installing them differently, it would be nice to know what works and what doesnt...(or at least what is supposed to work as per the designers/engineers of the HG)
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Lakeland, Florida
^i agree. personally, i think the thicker HG is a sham and a bad product. its marketed to do a job, and over 50% of the time it doesnt. and it has to be done so specifically and specially to a degree that no-one can duplicate from any directions. it just seems like the ones that work, work on a whim.
i also think they are like bratty girls that pout and throw a tantrum if the tune isnt 100% perfect. with all these mixed metals forming a wall where your cyl wall used to be, its no wonder thats the first area to give up. the HG is no where near as tough as the cyl wall. the oem takes more abuse because there is more cyl wall and less gasket to get stressed. when you slap the 3mm of gasket in place of the wall to hold that combustion, the weak gasket bites the dust sure as shit at the first sign of detonation.
say what ya like, but i give the 3mm HG and the like
. its just my opinion.
i also think they are like bratty girls that pout and throw a tantrum if the tune isnt 100% perfect. with all these mixed metals forming a wall where your cyl wall used to be, its no wonder thats the first area to give up. the HG is no where near as tough as the cyl wall. the oem takes more abuse because there is more cyl wall and less gasket to get stressed. when you slap the 3mm of gasket in place of the wall to hold that combustion, the weak gasket bites the dust sure as shit at the first sign of detonation.
say what ya like, but i give the 3mm HG and the like
. its just my opinion.
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Sydney
Loosen and retighten your head bolts/studs several times one at a time after installing. if you hear any squeeks relube the thread and both sides of the washer before continuing.
The first time you pull up the studs to 80 or 90 lb you will find some of them will be unbalanced. When you loosen them 1/4 turn then retorque I'm pretty sure you will find the ones you torqued up first will actually rotate a little further once all the other studs are under load and the head is held down better.
The first time you pull up the studs to 80 or 90 lb you will find some of them will be unbalanced. When you loosen them 1/4 turn then retorque I'm pretty sure you will find the ones you torqued up first will actually rotate a little further once all the other studs are under load and the head is held down better.