You dont have to put the molylube on the threads of the studs. You only put a good amount on both faces of the washers and the face of the nuts. You will get some on the threads of the studs when you install the washers and nuts, but the main parts to get the molylube on are the faces because of shear when torquing the nuts. You want to eliminate the shear as much as possible to get the proper torque.

 

lord no!

i ran a cometic 2mm and ended up getting out of that scene before any of the S2KI pitfalls became a chapter in my book too.

i sold my turbo kit, built the motor to 100% stock(minus my studs), and i am going Comptech in jan with their new 1220sl kit and calling it a day.

i am an absolute freak when it comes to my car and having the areas im interested in be as close to perfect as possible. so when all the gasket failures started popping up like herpes, i took note of a less than perfect leakdown result i had, and took that shit apart.

 

I agree with you, but I also think it is a good idea to have moly lube on the threads. Once the nut has any sort of pressure on it, it too will have a "shear" effect similar to the washer will as force in the upward direction will be acting on the top portion of the thread much in the same way the washer will be encountering.

Either way it cant hurt to put it on the threads as well, just one less thing to bind.

 

I put moly lube and every part of the stud/nut/washer that has contact with each other. Like others say, what could it hurt? I think the 3mm headgasket works just fine for those in the 400-500hp range or lower boost levels and obviously a somewhat conservative tune. But I agree with valorracing, it is hit or miss and almost impossible to duplicate one install to the next. That also receives a thumbs down in my book.

 

Kevin? lol.

 

^lol.. woops! wrong guy. i was thinkin of Deception.. yuk yuk yuk yuk yuk

 

hey i have a quick ? what will be the best way to get milky oil out the motor ....

 

buy something called seafoam and run it in your oil. it will breakdown all that bs in there. buy cheap generic oil and add seafoam in, drive for a few days. then do an oil change, then add seafoam in drive for a few days, then do an oil change. and by that time, you can put good oil back in and go about your business.

even dropping the pan wont get rid of it all and it will stay in your motor for a while.
so try the seafoam trick out.

 

She is now put back together, running and awaiting a test drive. I sprayed the shit out of the head gasket for added insurance. If the head/block came fresh back from the machine shop then I would have just ran the HG alone but hey, it doesnt hurt.