TiAL MV-R Wastegate Spring Options/Combos
I was looking into getting a bigger spring so I could control my boost from 26psi+ and noticed there are many colors to one set pressure I.E>
1.0 BAR/14.50 PSI- Brown/Maroon/Grey
To achieve 1 bar will I be putting 3 different springs together?? Back in the day you only had to buy 1 spring but for the MV-R's it seems as if you have to bunch them all together which seems cheesy. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Or should I juse keep my 10 psi spring and use a 4 port solenoid to achieve my goals.
1.0 BAR/14.50 PSI- Brown/Maroon/Grey
To achieve 1 bar will I be putting 3 different springs together?? Back in the day you only had to buy 1 spring but for the MV-R's it seems as if you have to bunch them all together which seems cheesy. Can anyone shed some light on this?
Or should I juse keep my 10 psi spring and use a 4 port solenoid to achieve my goals.
Yes, you have to use a combination of springs. Here is a link for all the different combinations and spring pressures.
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/MVRspc.png
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/MVRspc.png
Since this will only be for tuning/running in the 22psi-30 psi range, is there any downsides to running the bigger 20-21 psi spring vs running a 14 psi spring other than range of usable boost levels? I wouldn't want to use the 14 psi spring since I enjoy the 10 psi 1st and 2nd gear pulls which hook up nicely. I am going to stick with the MAC 3 port solenoid for this setup.
Generally you want to run just on the lower duty cycle end of the spectrum as you know. I run the MAC setup and just tuned it yesterday, love the results. I used a 10lb spring which can probably top out around 20psi safely as that is double and assuming a pound or two of boost creep as in many setups. If you're looking for up to 30psi you need to run a 15lb spring at minimum and that's using 100% duty cycle on the solenoid unless boost creep is helping out.
In my case I ran a 10lb spring and boost at 15psi for now until my motor has some more miles on it.
In my case I ran a 10lb spring and boost at 15psi for now until my motor has some more miles on it.
Generally you want to run just on the lower duty cycle end of the spectrum as you know. I run the MAC setup and just tuned it yesterday, love the results. I used a 10lb spring which can probably top out around 20psi safely as that is double and assuming a pound or two of boost creep as in many setups. If you're looking for up to 30psi you need to run a 15lb spring at minimum and that's using 100% duty cycle on the solenoid unless boost creep is helping out.
In my case I ran a 10lb spring and boost at 15psi for now until my motor has some more miles on it.
In my case I ran a 10lb spring and boost at 15psi for now until my motor has some more miles on it.
Option 1 - 14.5+ wg spring
Option 2 - 10psi spring and 4 port solenoid.
I put the maroon and brown spring in mine for time being suppose to be 8.7lbs on a mvr but jeebus it was a pain in the ass to get the two springs seated correctly and tighten everything down by myself deffinately helps having another set of hands.
-Chris
-Chris
Yeah I don't really enjoy changing wg springs so I might give the 4 port solenoid a try first.
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Originally Posted by vduber' timestamp='1336611240' post='21684648
I put the maroon and brown spring in mine for time being suppose to be 8.7lbs on a mvr but jeebus it was a pain in the ass to get the two springs seated correctly and tighten everything down by myself deffinately helps having another set of hands.
-Chris
-Chris
i remember doing a WG spring change on my buddies turbo vr6. i had to manhandle that WG closed, then scream screw this bitch down now and watch as he slowly screwed it closed while i held it as tight as i could. best part was it was a damn 15psi single spring. that sucked so much ass. my tial mv-r has two springs i think to make 10 psi and it was so much easier lol. helps that it was off the car when i changed them. the vr6 swap was done while it was still on the car
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