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Ticking wont stop!

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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #71  
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I'm also using an ATI Super Damper; really hoping that when(if) I ever have to remove it, I'll already have the engine out (so I can lock the flywheel in place).
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #72  
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Fk man... You think they would of thought of that.. I think it's time to send them a pissy letter

Sent from my Galaxy S II using Tapatalk
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #73  
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From: houston
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Try heating up the pulley ? Not saying use open flame or anything but bags of boiling water or something. Spray that bolt hardcore with some keyboard cleaner to make it a tad colder. Then impact it again. I did something along those lines a long time ago to get a stubborn crank bolt out .
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #74  
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Ati has done this for yrs, it sucks. If you google forums full of complaints with no area to get tool in. Thats why im keeping stock one this time
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #75  
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Guys all you need is a chain or strap wrench to wrap around the pulley. Use an old piece of belt, thick wrag/towel, piece of exhaust wrap, etc to put between the pulley and the wrench to protect it from damage. We use these on lots and lots of cars to remove the crank bolts as many modern engines accessing the bolt with an air gun is impossible. Also since you can get to it with an airgun, get a real airgun with a real impact socket. You can pick up a craftsman 3/4 impact and a set of real impact sockets cheap and it will break any bolt on that car loose with ease as long as you've got a decent compressor. Also Psi going through an air gun means nothing without volume. Most home size compressors will NOT supply the CFM's necessary to even achieve half the torque rating of most guns. We run 120 psi at our shop through 3/4 lines from a small room sized compressor and I still go to the 3/4 gun quite often for heavy bolt breaking. Get a strap/chain wrench and a decent sized fellow to hold it, or a man gun. It'll come off with ease.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:37 PM
  #76  
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thanks guys, we already tried the torch on this bitch, I'm gonna try and make somehting with a belt and a vise grip like japhethwar said, gonna get my buddys snap on gun a and a thicker compressor line, pump that bitch up to 170 psi and see what happens, gonna be busy for the next few days and wont get to work on the car til sunday most likely, this bitch is coming off one way or another, on a side note i cant drop the pan, the trans conversion kit adapter plate has 2 large bolts going through the plate into the pan, then the trans goes on the plate, so the only way to drop the pan would be to remove the trans, no f@#ken way is that happening, jeez high hp problems
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #77  
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WOW! How tight did you torque the crank bolt? I may look into having the grooves machined into my ATI damper before I put it on. As long as it wont affect the balance of it.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #78  
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From: huntington long island
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we didnt tighten that bad at all, and that was only like 4-5 weeks ago, the bolt with the stock pulley on came right off with an electric impact gun, and was put back on by the same gun just til like 2 clicks, now its freaken bonded to the pulley
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #79  
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This is what your looking for. Wrap the pulley with several layers of wrags or whatever and strap this around it. The harder you pull on the bolt the tighter it gets. Works everytime. Can be had for less than 30 bucks on ebay.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by japhethwar
This is what your looking for. Wrap the pulley with several layers of wrags or whatever and strap this around it. The harder you pull on the bolt the tighter it gets. Works everytime. Can be had for less than 30 bucks on ebay.
Yup that best tool for pulley ... i use left over exhuast heat wraP to protect the pulley. Ive used on all kinds of non honda pulleys aswell no issue fn up pulleys.
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