Glad to find this post.

I have been through two HG in 5k miles.


Thats the bottom of the HG. Using ARP head studs we torqued the head at 92lbs with a half turn using engine oil.

head stud backed out in between number 2,3 cylnder.


All I know for sure right now why I have had this happen is over heating.
I am having it retuned when I get everything back together.


(Not intended hijack, make sure you really check your head studs or you will have the mess I am going through).

 

I'm not too sure that overtorquing doesn't cause the same problem. To paraphrase what Earl said to me - "120 ft-lbs you might crush the head gasket or warp the head". In any case, I'm glad I brought up this topic. I think the problem of blown head gasket with ARP or EABS head studs has been solved.

 

Hmmm... I have a blown headgasket and thought it was due to me using the Cometic HG. I, too, called Earl to ask about the torque specs and we did the same 75 with Moly. I wonder if that is the cause of my headaches? Let us know how your car runs using those specs fperra. I sure do miss Earl.. I would call him randomly sometimes just to tell him how much fun I was having with his engine. What a friendly guy.

 

GOOD thread!

 

a probably silly question
why dont we use a thread lock, like loctite , to keep the studs in place ?

 

On Hondas I've always torque ARP's to 90ft/lbs with supplied moly lube. Never any headgaskets probelms. No retorques or nothing either.

 

bump for the silly question

 

Loctite would throw off torque numbers. You couldn't lube the studs/bolt and use loctite together. Also if you were to only use loctite it could damage the threads next time you remove them.

 

Best thread I have seen on this topic yet. Good info for those of us that have not yet done this but will be soon.

 

I'm replacing my gasket next week and will torque to ~95 lbs with moly.