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Torquing Head Bolts

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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #31  
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So what needs to be torqued to 80 here, the stud going into the block or the nut going onto the stud?

I dont know if my factory bolts will withstand the pressure and power I plan on running
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 05:16 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by PeanutButter,Mar 30 2008, 04:46 PM
So what needs to be torqued to 80 here, the stud going into the block or the nut going onto the stud?

I dont know if my factory bolts will withstand the pressure and power I plan on running
The nut going onto the stud. And make it 85 ft-lb.
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #33  
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Never had one issue with ARP or AEBS studs in the 6 years of using them.

I'm speaking from my own experience point of view and as usual I don't take responsibility if you try and screw something up. I know these tips may be obvious, but its good to have them if you're new to installing studs:

* Check deck surface and head surface for flatness

* If you have a sleeved block, check and see if the sleeves have raised or dropped. Also press one sleeve against the next and see if there is movement between the gaps (example push cylinder 2 with your two thumbs against cylinder 3 and look for movement. I had one block that would only blow a head gasket at 9k rpms and never at 8k. It was due to the movement of the sleeves from a bad sleeve job bridging cylinders 2 and 3.

* When building, you should always re-tap the threads on the block and clean them throughly.

* When screwing in the head studs, make sure they they seat properly. A good way of checking is to torque (stud only, not with the nut and washer) 10ft lbs. You'd be surprised how many more threads it takes to bottom that stud. Sometimes the allen wrench you're using may not give you enough leverage/torque to bottom the stud. From what I can recall right now, ARP uses a step or buldge at the top of the block side threads for bottoming, AEBS uses a point at the bottom of the stud for bottoming.

*Use LUBE! Don't forget to lube the top and bottom side of the washer and the upper threads and/or nuts. If you don't the wash can bind or gall giving you improper torque readings.

* With Moly Lube I torque F, H, and K series to 80ft lbs and NEVER had a stud related issue. I also NEVER had a Cometic gasket issue either. It's more likely it's the sleeves or the deck/head surface being the culprit.

* Use factory recommended torque pattern and sequences. Once you get to your final torquing sequence, double check them for piece of mind.

My 2 cents
Hope this helps the thread.

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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 04:12 AM
  #34  
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when putting the rod into the block, do you need lube?
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by PeanutButter,Mar 31 2008, 07:12 AM
when putting the rod into the block, do you need lube?
do u mean on the rod bolts? then yes.
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