WHP? dynosheet says its flywheel power ( HP )

So if you have 296 HP, you have the same HP output as i did on 8ish PSI



Only my curve looks alot smoother, you seem to have some flaws in the power output, your tuner SHOULD be able to make it SMOOTHER.. How many runs did he do to achieve the current tune?

I had this tested on the MAHA LP3000 dyno ( this dyno is VERY similar to a MUSTANG dyno.. My tuner did day that this type of dyno creates more whp losses as the rpm's increases, so the WHP numbers are NOT correct ( to low ), the flywheel power should be 100% correct )

 

The dyno used was a Dyno Dynamics which I think is similar to a Mustang also, but Xenocron made adjustments in the software so it reads numbers similar to a DynoJet. Pretty sure its whp, it might have something to do with the software.

As for max power, I told him my priorities were:
1) safe tune
2) fuel economic
3) power

So I don't think he messed with the timing a ton.

 

I dont think its whp since the chart says flywheel power. Nevertheless, 300hp is still about 70-80hp over a stock ap1! Give em a call to be sure... 300whp or HP is a BIG difference. I see people al the time telling how much whp they have while they are actually telling the flywheel HP...

300whp would be really nice at 9 psi though. But i think you need around 10-11 psi and a FANTASTIC tune for that..

 

Here's what he informed me:

"Technically its probably closer to FWP, but it reads dead on with Dyno Jet numbers which is what everyone considers to be "wheel horsepower"

Either way I'm happy. It was running like ass before on some makeshift tune

 

Has anyone had to grind down the motor mount a lil to get the oil return on. Im installing my greddy kit , im using pfab manifold and cant get the oil return on it hits a corner of the motor mount. What you guys think?

 

You might be able to turn the cold side of the turbo a bit by loosening the metal clamp aroud the center of the turbo.
So you can adjust and align the cold side so it fits better to the ic piping. Yours may be a bit off and need a small alignment so that it fixes both problems that occur: hitting engine mount and aligning with ic piping.

Im running stock mani and innovative motor mounts so i havent had this issue..


I could be wrong though...

 

For numbers, I am at 300WHP even @10PSI. If the car dosent sell in the next couple weeks Ill be re-tuning for 14PSI.

 

My second greddy manifold (the first one cracked and was replaced under warranty) cracked a few months ago. The second one was cast, but that just delayed the cracking by a few years. I ordered the PFAB replacement and I am having the same issue as you. The oil feed line is hitting the mount so you can't actually bolt the turbo to the manifold. Have you come up with a solution yet?

I have a 2000 AP1 (original model year) and other than the 2 cracks and one oil line leak, I have had no issues with the turbo. It's been 5 years 50,000 miles of greddy turbo in total now. Car has 170,000 miles on it. It was tuned by Toan at PTuning in Va.

 

I had to grind down the corner of the mount bracket a lil so it can fit . Il post up a pic

 

Thanks. I emailed Pang and this was his response.

"I saw the pics. The center section of the turbo can be clocked for the line to clear the flange. This can be done by loosen the compressor and turbo housing. Pang"

He also said I could file the edge down just enough to make it clear the oil feed line.

Unfortunately, My car and turbo are stuck at a mechanic who has no real experience with turbo mechanisms. It is cost prohibitive to have the car towed several states away to my tuner who does have the requisite experience. I just needed my inspection done, but it would not pass because of the manifold exhaust leaks which led to my car being stuck at a normal corner mechanic for over a month now. If I had known it was going to lead to all this, I would have skipped the state inspection and driven it down to Ptuning and left it with them to take care of the cracked manifold and the apparent wear on the fan in the turbo. Apparently, after 50,000 turbo miles my turbo is showing significant signs of wear and the mechanic thinks it may now be unsafe. Greddy wants $2,080 for a new turbo according to their direct reps. That's unreal... however they promise that I can send my old turbo in for a rebuild and that will cost less. How much less? I have no idea as they say it depends on the actual extent of damage and wear that needs fixing. So not only do I need to get the old turbo to fit with Pang's manifold, but I might need to wait for a turbo rebuild first.

So, my question is Pang's suggestion sounds easy, but is this as easy as it seems? I'm not mechanically inclined so I'm throwing it out there for feedback on this forum. What should I tell my mechanic _exactly_ so he can safely and reliably clock the turbo enough to make it work with PFab's replacement manifold?