The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread
01-31-2012, 05:30 PM
#1401
Got a question guys . Im trying to finish with my greddy kit install but I cant seem to find my rc injector o rings. I dont think it brought any or maybr do I reuse my oem injectors o rings ? Also,my friend was telling me that it should come with spacers but I don't have those either. My greddy kit only came with the rc550 injectors and the plug n play wire harness. What u guys think,?
01-31-2012, 05:49 PM
#1402
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I re-used my OEM rings, however any basic parts store can help you out as well.
as for the oil return clearance, I did not have this issue, however you can purchase an aftermarket return adapter like the one below then use a 5/8" straight barb and it should solve your problems.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Re...item5891f88c80
as for the oil return clearance, I did not have this issue, however you can purchase an aftermarket return adapter like the one below then use a 5/8" straight barb and it should solve your problems.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Re...item5891f88c80
01-31-2012, 07:18 PM
#1403
Thread Starter
Got a question guys . Im trying to finish with my greddy kit install but I cant seem to find my rc injector o rings. I dont think it brought any or maybr do I reuse my oem injectors o rings ? Also,my friend was telling me that it should come with spacers but I don't have those either. My greddy kit only came with the rc550 injectors and the plug n play wire harness. What u guys think,?
As for the injector spacers, just find out from someone (or greddy) how tall the spacers are and make your own or use washers. The fuel rail and injectors assembly just needs to be spaced out the proper distance since the RC injectors don't have the same dimensions as the OEM injectors.
01-31-2012, 07:42 PM
#1404
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by S2KCHRIS305' timestamp='1327951639' post='21366340
I had to grind down the corner of the mount bracket a lil so it can fit . Il post up a pic
"I saw the pics. The center section of the turbo can be clocked for the line to clear the flange. This can be done by loosen the compressor and turbo housing. Pang"
He also said I could file the edge down just enough to make it clear the oil feed line.
Unfortunately, My car and turbo are stuck at a mechanic who has no real experience with turbo mechanisms. It is cost prohibitive to have the car towed several states away to my tuner who does have the requisite experience. I just needed my inspection done, but it would not pass because of the manifold exhaust leaks which led to my car being stuck at a normal corner mechanic for over a month now. If I had known it was going to lead to all this, I would have skipped the state inspection and driven it down to Ptuning and left it with them to take care of the cracked manifold and the apparent wear on the fan in the turbo. Apparently, after 50,000 turbo miles my turbo is showing significant signs of wear and the mechanic thinks it may now be unsafe. Greddy wants $2,080 for a new turbo according to their direct reps. That's unreal... however they promise that I can send my old turbo in for a rebuild and that will cost less. How much less? I have no idea as they say it depends on the actual extent of damage and wear that needs fixing. So not only do I need to get the old turbo to fit with Pang's manifold, but I might need to wait for a turbo rebuild first.
So, my question is Pang's suggestion sounds easy, but is this as easy as it seems? I'm not mechanically inclined so I'm throwing it out there for feedback on this forum. What should I tell my mechanic _exactly_ so he can safely and reliably clock the turbo enough to make it work with PFab's replacement manifold?
So if you only have to clock it a very small amount, then you can do it this way. If it's a significant amount, then the best way is to only adjust the center section--which means you'll have to remove the C clip on the compressor side and mark how much to rotate the center (this will require removing the entire turbocharger assy).
oh yeah, one last thing. if you are trying the first method mentioned above, once you loosen the V band, the center cartridge might not rotate very easily unless it's a newer turbo. On older, higher mileage turbos, the center cartridge tends to fuse itself a bit to the turbo housing. In these cases, you can use a bit of muscle or give it a light nudge with a mallet. If you remove the V band completely, you can crack the two apart from each other with a chisel and hammer.
on the turbo rebuild, greddy used to be able to rebuild them for under $500. But if any of the major components are damaged (housings, center cartridge, or turbo/compressor wheels), it'll be extra and ETA could be long. There are other people that have experience rebuilding mitsu turbos, so you might want to shop around.
02-02-2012, 12:02 PM
#1407
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02-03-2012, 08:30 AM
#1408
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Guys, who is running a TESTPIPE?
im currently running 8LBS of boost, PORTED wastegate and a full 3" headerback exhaust with integrated HFC ( BERK )
Im going for a retune soon ( 10-11LBS boost ) and i'm wondering if i would switch the mid section of my berk headerback to a TESTPIPE version..
I would like to know IF i would gain some extra HP out of the testpipe compared to the HFC and most IMPORTANTLY, how will the car/turbo react to the TESTPIPE? I do have ported the wastegate but i don't know if i still would get boostcreep.
I do however have a greddy boost controller ( b spec II ) which is capable of lowering boost, but not sure how it will handle with creep..
Anyone?
im currently running 8LBS of boost, PORTED wastegate and a full 3" headerback exhaust with integrated HFC ( BERK )
Im going for a retune soon ( 10-11LBS boost ) and i'm wondering if i would switch the mid section of my berk headerback to a TESTPIPE version..
I would like to know IF i would gain some extra HP out of the testpipe compared to the HFC and most IMPORTANTLY, how will the car/turbo react to the TESTPIPE? I do have ported the wastegate but i don't know if i still would get boostcreep.
I do however have a greddy boost controller ( b spec II ) which is capable of lowering boost, but not sure how it will handle with creep..
Anyone?
02-03-2012, 09:54 AM
#1410
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