WARNING TO AEM WATER/METH GUYS
I have setup and tuned many a car with water/meth systems.
race gas isnt $15 a gallon.
we sold 5gallon pails at the shop i used to work for at around 40-55$ a pail depending on the octane you wanted. buying by a 55gallon drum made it even cheaper.
we did have 110 unleaded which is more than enough for most everyone, its easy on sensors, etc.
Leaded gas dosnt harm things as much as you would think and if it fouls your plugs then you are doing something wrong.
most people arent diligent enough to maintain a seperate water meth system, which is why as a professional i would never recommend it.
14lbs is hardly ever too much for pump gas, so normally if I did set one up it was for setups over 20lbs... which is kind of pointless, b/c most cars are worthless past 20lbs on a good setup (which would be over 500 on most hondas) on the street...... thus most of my customers just had a race gas tune and took it to the track for more power than that.
race gas isnt $15 a gallon.
we sold 5gallon pails at the shop i used to work for at around 40-55$ a pail depending on the octane you wanted. buying by a 55gallon drum made it even cheaper.
we did have 110 unleaded which is more than enough for most everyone, its easy on sensors, etc.
Leaded gas dosnt harm things as much as you would think and if it fouls your plugs then you are doing something wrong.
most people arent diligent enough to maintain a seperate water meth system, which is why as a professional i would never recommend it.
14lbs is hardly ever too much for pump gas, so normally if I did set one up it was for setups over 20lbs... which is kind of pointless, b/c most cars are worthless past 20lbs on a good setup (which would be over 500 on most hondas) on the street...... thus most of my customers just had a race gas tune and took it to the track for more power than that.
I like making 680whp with a $300 water/meth system, and 93 octane pump gas. 
Most people ARE diligent enough to maintain a simple water/meth system. Which for me has been absolutely no maintenance. Leaded race fuel is definitely harder on sensors, and plugs, has nothing to do with someone doing it right or wrong, it's just a fact.
Obviously, with the right setup, race fuel will ultimately net better gains, but some of us don't want to run that crap in our street cars, and don't want to mess with multiple tunes. I want to be in kill mode all the time.
For me, the benefits definitely out weigh the risks. The risks will always be there when you are trying to maximize a setup. It comes with the territory.

Most people ARE diligent enough to maintain a simple water/meth system. Which for me has been absolutely no maintenance. Leaded race fuel is definitely harder on sensors, and plugs, has nothing to do with someone doing it right or wrong, it's just a fact.
Obviously, with the right setup, race fuel will ultimately net better gains, but some of us don't want to run that crap in our street cars, and don't want to mess with multiple tunes. I want to be in kill mode all the time.

For me, the benefits definitely out weigh the risks. The risks will always be there when you are trying to maximize a setup. It comes with the territory.
Originally Posted by wadzii,Aug 2 2009, 02:52 PM
yes, you can use the nitrous map
the hobbs switch will do just what s2kart was saying, but no need to build any circuit
the hobbs switch will do just what s2kart was saying, but no need to build any circuit
[QUOTE=wadzii,Aug 3 2009, 06:52 AM] why would you need a delay? so what if the pump is running, if there isnt any pressure yet there is no reason to have the boost go up/switch on the nitrous maps.
if they make such a thing as a normally closed hobbs switch, you could use that one for the higher pressure (clogged nozzle) shut off, just wire it inline with the other hobbs switch.
no need for relays or anything, just a wire going to ground then a wire going to the ecu.
for activation, use a toggle switch in the car to send a switched input to the ems, then an LS or HS output linked to the switch to turn on the water meth whenever you reach a certian condition, throttle, coolant temp, engine speed, etc, etc.
if they make such a thing as a normally closed hobbs switch, you could use that one for the higher pressure (clogged nozzle) shut off, just wire it inline with the other hobbs switch.
no need for relays or anything, just a wire going to ground then a wire going to the ecu.
for activation, use a toggle switch in the car to send a switched input to the ems, then an LS or HS output linked to the switch to turn on the water meth whenever you reach a certian condition, throttle, coolant temp, engine speed, etc, etc.
Originally Posted by CourageOO7,Aug 3 2009, 02:26 PM
Damn Joey...you have had a drama filled forced induction experience. That sucks. I'm sorry.
Originally Posted by geists2k,Aug 3 2009, 09:57 AM
Have you ever personally used water/methanol or methanol injection on a boosted motor making over 14 pounds of boost? Or have you ever run leaded race fuel in a street driven car?
So you think running 15+ dollar a gallon leaded race fuel -- that fouls plugs and ruins O2 sensors (which is also not too good for your motor) -- is better than working out the safeties for pump gas and water/meth injection?
Many things can go wrong when you add boost to a car and nothing is "perfectly" safe. Buy an air fuel gauge, hook things up right and maintain them correctly.
So you think running 15+ dollar a gallon leaded race fuel -- that fouls plugs and ruins O2 sensors (which is also not too good for your motor) -- is better than working out the safeties for pump gas and water/meth injection?
Many things can go wrong when you add boost to a car and nothing is "perfectly" safe. Buy an air fuel gauge, hook things up right and maintain them correctly.
water/meth or (peak) in other words is hugely beneficial and cost effective for my set up, would not be boosted without it. Sorry to hear of the break in Joey, happened to me too recently, but don't let that bad vibe ruin your fun with the meth kit. just replace what you need to get it working normal again and enjoy. It obviously did what it was designed to do with telling you there was a problem, but going through that just reminded you how you cant get totally complacent when you are modded to this level.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Aug 3 2009, 08:16 PM
water/meth or (peak) in other words is hugely beneficial and cost effective for my set up, would not be boosted without it. Sorry to hear of the break in Joey, happened to me too recently, but don't let that bad vibe ruin your fun with the meth kit. just replace what you need to get it working normal again and enjoy. It obviously did what it was designed to do with telling you there was a problem, but going through that just reminded you how you cant get totally complacent when you are modded to this level. 
Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Aug 3 2009, 09:45 PM
good point, and as far as the break in Geico cut me a check today for $3,010.00, and I just bought a hardtop for $2,995.00 shipped, so all is well







