But on pump gas?

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No way on stock block.

 

Yeah definitely can't take it on pump gas stock motor. Well for a short while maybe it can lol.

 

Very interested to see the torque curve of this beast. I'm seriously considering going this route vs a turbo.

 

Now everyone this setup is LOUD!!! All I hear most of the time is air escaping...buy if you are already venting your DV/BOV then its not a big deal.

Also about the whole hot air thing. That is why I mounted my WG pre aftercool to help everything stay cool.

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It’s an SC not a Turbo, which ultimately means less stress on the motor and less rpm range where detonation can occur due to where boost falls in the rpm range. Honestly running at anything over 15psi I would be injecting water/methanol, so certainly that would be a prerequisite for 20psi. Consider that even though your max boost is at redline, that doesn’t mean that’s where its most likely to detonate, typically that happens where max torque is made, so about 7300 rpm X what ever your boost nets at that rpm. More finite tuning is involved of course at these higher levels as the window for safe gets smaller and smaller, but my point is your still approaching the same max trq/boost number with the BOV set up as you are if you were to just letting the motor have all of it. You are airing on the side of caution, taking the safer approach here which I can appreciate, just saying it may not be necessary for the ultimate longevity of the motor, your blower will crap out in the same time interval regardless.

 

Boosted pressure is boosted pressure. The combustion chamber can't tell the difference. Not sure how you explain one being less stressful over the other at the same boost level.

Sure, you can talk specifics about CFM's and air temp, but all things equal I don't think the above logic holds up.

 

I'm confused, did you not read the entire sentence? Let me elaborate then with an example, making a progressive amount of boost following the factory power curve of the motor, peaking 20psi redline is most definitely easier on this motor then making 20psi at 4-5k rpm to redline. The motor also cares what the combustion temp and EGT is, and on a turbo its notably higher, which means more opportunity to detonate/much smaller window at these levels to get a safe tune, certainly in changing conditions which is the real world environment. These are the primary and significant differences between a SC/Turbo car at the "same" boost pressure.

Turbo guys, you don’t get to have it all, there are compromises and sometimes negative consequences to your fatter powerband.

And since they aren’t equal at all, I believe the logic does hold up.

 

No tuner who knows s20"0's well will give the thumbs up to tune 20 psi sc on a stock engine with pump. Sure it will be fine if you don't rev over 6-7k rpms. Taking it to 17,18,19,20 psi you would be asking for trouble. Theres a reason almost all tuners will recommend you stay under 14-15 psi on pump.

 

I've been running my tts kit at 18psi for 7k miles, now up to 21psi for the last 1000 miles all on uk 99 fuel. Stock engine with Motec M800 ecu. It loves it!!! only issue is I got valve float at 18psi so changed to bc springs