I would like to know this as well,when increasing the boost when does the Ult become a poor choice.

Message to Joey B-your boost gauge is a gauge the only way you really know what's going on is by your tuner. My AEM Tru boost runs around -1 psi what my tuner reads on the dyno.

 

interesting, thanks, as in the gauge reads 1.0PSI lower then what your tuner sees?


I can't wait to get this thing re-tuned, strap on my Wideband and just leave everything alone

 

My Wide band reads 1 higher than my tuner dynopak reads, so when I see 12 it's really 11. What are you going trust a 150 part or $3000 tuning machine.

 

haah Yea I hear ya, I need to ask my tuner a ton of questions..............

 

Ok, how will my Tuner be able to safely tune to 12PSI on 90 degree summer days when I go to tune in mildly cold Nov??????? The AFR's would stay the same but the temperatures in the intake will be hotter in the summer then the winter, even with the METH correct?

 

^I think the general thing is to have 2 tunes. One whenever the car is originally tuned (it will be either hot or cold weather then), and a second one when the seasons change to the other extreme. More of a seasonal "checkup" by the tuner for the first year of operation. Just swap the adjusted seasonal fuel/timing map, in spring (swap to warm weather tune) and fall (swap to cold weather tune). This is the safest / most common sense thing I have read...

As far as when the E-Ultimate becomes ineffective, I am not sure if there is a threshold, as there are many different things it is modifying at once. Its just that its still a piggyback system... i.e. - Its taking OEM ECU inputs (or is it outputs... I cannot remember), and is modifying them to make the ECU see what it wants to see to create those conditions (i.e. - Timing and fuel outputs). I just question how effective it can be once those adjustments become more and more extreme from the OEM values (the E-Ultimate is having to adjust more).

I am not a tuner, and I do not want anyone to think that I am... I have just read that it is not smart to use piggyback tuning solutions for high boost applications... If you want reliability, EMS is the way to go, as you start from the ground up (provided you have a good tuner, who knows the car and the EMS).

Just to confirm this for my setup as well. I am reading 6.5psi peak on my AEM boost gauge (1052u EMS). An independent pressure meter at the dyno measured 7.25psi peak. This is about right on a 7.5# wastegate spring. It looks like mine is reading about 1psi low as well.

And my wideband also usually reads a bit richer than a tail-pipe sniffer (gauge read 11.5 in VTEC to redline, while the dyno sniffer read 12.5 to readline. We took the reading from the sensor that was closest to the exhaust ports).... which makes sense, as the wideband is not right where the exhaust is diffusing with the surrounding air at the muffler... its way up in the downpipe.

John

 

I think they get the engine nice and hot first, then tune so it's tuned for the worst possible conditions. You could need a summer and winter tune as well. Well that's what my guy did anyway.

 

I am coming close to one of the limits of the ULT.....


With boost coming in so quick (less then 20% tps) with the Positive displacement setup tricking the computer to go into open loop so soon with the ULT has its little quirks.

While the car runes great at this limit I am working on how to reduce the little quirks..
Its all in the tune.

In my case it is necessary to ramp up the TPS voltage very quick so the stock computer sees 80% tps when I am close to boost tip in.

When getting off of the throttle some times the Stock computer cuts the injectors a bit to quickly ( 2 second delay for injector cut off is effectively removed). The 2 second delay makes engine breaking decel much smoother.

 

I find building boost at light throttle is hit and miss too. The fuel gets weird sometimes. I guess it's the TPS threshold as you said. No worries though. My AEM will fix it all.

 

Want to get the ULT as perfect as possible before I step up the Kpro.


The AP2 ECUs are much smarter and stricter then the AP1 ECUs