Wire tuck in progress
Originally Posted by miguel329' timestamp='1312457648' post='20846030
Looking good man, been considering doing this aswell just really dont want fuse box in fender hate too take fender out to change a fuse lol.
To me, the worst case is this:
1. Fuse blows out in the middle of nowhere.
2. I have to hitch a ride into some random town and find a shop that sells fuses (or have the car towed).
3. I have to hitch a ride back out to the car to swap the fuses.
4. After all that PITA, turning a handful of bolts to remove the fender (or just removing a couple fender liner screws) is only adding 5% extra work that isn't hard to do, and which I doubt I'll ever have to do anyway. I can have the fender off in a couple minutes; it's quite easy to remove.
Props to anyone with the time and ability to find a more accessible location (like the passenger footwell)... That's major work, and shows dedication. But to me, every extended wire adds 2 new failure points that can cause electrical gremlins. I really don't like electrical gremlins, and I'm not willing to take the risk to extend 20 more wires just to put it in a spot that's easier to reach. (Especially since I never even knew there was a fuse box there until I started worrying about turbo heat, and I do not expect to ever change a fuse.) I placed my fuse box as far forward against the fender liner as I could, and as a result I only had to extend the power steering wires. If those fail, I can still drive the car. All the other wires just... barely... reached.


Note: I moved the battery to the trunk the following weekend, in case you're wondering why it's still in the stock location in the last pic. I did the wire tuck first and ran out of time to relo the battery because I had to have the car back together for work on Monday.
My wire tuck is exactly like this one above^ to the tee actually haha. surprisingly everything is accessible you just have to have patience to find your way around when you just take the fender liner out and not the whole fender
my fitting on my oil pan is whats leaking. when i had it welded on the shop hit the threads with their grinder and it never gave me problems til now. Another shop is going to pull my oil pan and weld on a new an fitting and put it back together when they do my downpipe this week.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/One-Pe...11153942276560
these guys are a mile from my house and do incredible work. they specialize with exotic's and twin turbo vipers. their fab guy doesn't incredible work as well.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/One-Pe...11153942276560
these guys are a mile from my house and do incredible work. they specialize with exotic's and twin turbo vipers. their fab guy doesn't incredible work as well.
Sounds like everyone's method is pretty much the same. I soldered the wires together also and shrink wpapped them, then ran them through the cross beam over and fished them out on the other side which puts it right at the steering rack. Except now my EPS is throwing a code 30 and the reset technique will not work for me so the EPS isn't working at all 

i cant remember what the code numbers were but it said i had 3 of them
they said there was grounding issues on the 2 sensors and said there was a short between the eps and fusebox?
didnt make much sense to me sense i didnt even touch those wires
the only thing i can think to do is separate out the grounds for the eps and run them to the battery so i know the ground is good, even though the body one shld have been fine
Did you guys move it into the fender? Im pretty sure the heat from a turbo can easily kill the EPS
Originally Posted by s2k_740' timestamp='1313023210' post='20866713
mine worked for 3 weeks, then i turned off the car and turned it back on 5 mins later after pulling into a spot and the light was on 

Did you guys move it into the fender? Im pretty sure the heat from a turbo can easily kill the EPS


