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Accord calipers work on S2000?

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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #391  
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Haven't been keeping track really but anyone recently done the swap on their S2K yet?
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #392  
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Me, 02 CL's 2-3 weeks ago.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #393  
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How are they? What was needed to fit the Acura ones? Are they similar to the TL 4 piston ones?
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #394  
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any of the OE 4 pistons calipers would be too much work
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #395  
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Yeah. I have been thinking about stoptechs though. Depends on how the whole "milling" thing turns out.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by EK9B18,Nov 9 2009, 07:24 PM
I have two RL rotors sitting next to my car. They fit over the hub and are the same diameter as the S2000 rotors and are 28mm thick. They won't work without milling the bracket. The same way you have to mill the bracket for ITR brakes on a 4 lug Civic. The bracket is preventing the RL rotors from sitting flat on the hub.

How much needs milling, I'm not sure yet. I'm in the middle of a rollbar install and it SUCKS.

Imagine a regular caliper bracket that sits over a rotor. If the rotor's 25mm thick then the bracket opening is probably 28mm thick or so. When the pads wear out, what keeps the pads from pushing off the bracket (imagine you've worn the pads down ot the backing plates) into the space between rotor and the bracket is the thickness of the backing plate and the narrow spacing between the bracket and the rotor.

Now you bolt on a bracket designed for a 28 mm thick rotor but, it's still sitting on a 25mm rotor. Assuming the same 3mm difference between the opening and the rotor thickness, the bracket opening should be 31-32mm. So, you now have 5-7 mm of clearance between the rotor and bracket instead of 3.

This difference in spacing is what we're talking about. Has the gap opened up enough to let a worn out pad go between the rotor and the bracket and slip out.
i have a solution but not sure if anyone would try it.

you can make custom spacers that will go between the rotors and the hub, that will push the rotors out instead of having the mill the bracket. much like using wheel spacer to push the wheels out, but the spacer will be on the back side of the rotors.

that will allow you to use the thicker RL rotors and not have to mill the bracket. and you don't have to worry about the pads slipping out off the bracket when it's worn down. moving the rotors out will also move the wheels out, so that will give you a little more clearance for wheels.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by hondaf1,Nov 13 2009, 04:00 PM
i have a solution but not sure if anyone would try it.

you can make custom spacers that will go between the rotors and the hub, that will push the rotors out instead of having the mill the bracket. much like using wheel spacer to push the wheels out, but the spacer will be on the back side of the rotors.

that will allow you to use the thicker RL rotors and not have to mill the bracket. and you don't have to worry about the pads slipping out off the bracket when it's worn down. moving the rotors out will also move the wheels out, so that will give you a little more clearance for wheels.
How much of a spacer? Now you're cutting down on the length of the wheel studs and decreasing wheel offset.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by GinoGT,Nov 13 2009, 01:03 PM
How much of a spacer? Now you're cutting down on the length of the wheel studs and decreasing wheel offset.
if the RL rotors is 7mm taller, then you would just need half of that to center rotor on the bracket.

3mm spacer is not that bad and if you track your car, you probably already have extended studs. there's nothing you can do about reducing wheel offset though. i might give this a try when i get Accord calipers. i have a friend that works at a machine shop with a laser cutter. he could cut me some stainless spacers pretty quick.
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #399  
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^^I think your math is a little off...

A 7mm spacer on the RL rotor would put it centered on the same point as the stock rotor. Since the stock rotor is 3mm outward from center on the bracket, we need to move inward 1.5mm to center the rotor. Thus, we move 7mm out and 1.5mm in for a total spacer of 5.5mm.

I think. Someone check my math?


ETA: if my math is right, a 5mm spacer would probably be sufficient and could be easily found (use a 5mm wheel spacer, maybe ground a bit off the outside so it will fit inside the rotor hat).
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Old Nov 13, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #400  
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Thats an idea I hadn't thought of. On paper it seems like something that might work.

Doing so would clear the tie rod too.
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