too much means you can bearly drive it on the street because if you are not doing a hole shot you stall it out. Plus your left leg will be 2" thicher in 3 months from pushing the peddle.

 

ON a similiar thread not about clutches but about fly wheels there is some talk but no concensus as to whether you want a heavier or lighter fly wheel if you boost. Some say the heavier fly wheel helps you keep in boost between shifts and other say it just shifts better with a ligher flywheel, especially AP2 (22 pounders), boosted or not. Of course if you are super charging I guess that is not an issue. My future plans are to super charge with SOS so to prepare I am putting in a new clutch, probably SOS, street heavy duty, and I really do not know if I want to change the flywheel or not. And if I did I think I would just do the AP1 because as said before that is going from 22 to 14 pounds which is quite a change, and it is cheap. Sooo whadda think. Am I going done the right path to go to lighter flywheel even though evenutally I will have lots more horsepower to turn the heavier one and greater clamping force(33% more from the SOS clutch)?

 

The stage 2 and 4 competition clutches use the same pressure plate. The strength increase comes from going to a puck style disk with a more aggresive friction material and stronger hub/springs in the disk. I ran a comp stg4 in my car for about 15k miles and its definately not for the faint of heart. The pedal effort required is only slightly more than stock, but the aggressive disk will take a lot of getting used to. Its noisy, difficult to modulate during stop and go, and will buzz on decel and accel. Especially during the lower gears. When your driving it hard or at the track its awesome, when your stuck in heavy traffic you wanna shoot yourself. For a street driven car its NOT the way to go, unless your making over 500hp. I would recommend a full face type disk with a slightly heavier than stock pressure plate for any street car. Race clutches are for the race track. I now have 450+hp and I still don't use a puck clutch, just not gonna go back to that torture.

 

There is NO performance benefit to a heavier flywheel, turboed, NA or supercharged. Any amount of rotating mass removed will always result in better performance. I run a 11lb flywheel on my car now and will be dropping to an 8lb the next time I pull the tranny. Staying in boost has to do with your turbo size, manifold, how quickly you shift, etc. Heavy flywheels are used to smooth vibration, ease engine starting, and make starting and shifting easier for the masses. For performance, get the lightest thing possible in there. I can assure you once you drive your S with a light flywheel you will not want a stock one ever again. When I drive stock cars at the shop now, it just feels like there something wrong with them. They rev so lethargically and just feel dead. There's nothing like the feeling of stabbing the gas and listening to the engine respond instantly and effortlessly. Go light.

 

Thanks

 

Which is great and all for revving at a stop light. For me the only real benefit I see of a lightened flywheel is for rev matching at the track, otherwise it's not like it's added any HP to the equation.

 

So let me see if I got this right...Looks like OEM is voted number one as of right now, with SOS coming in sceond...although there are some negative comments about the SOS. A puck clutch disk is too grabby for street...or I should say normal street/daily driving. I am right at 400whp and have the stock clutch/pp/fw; but would like a bit more grabby and always thought the sstock pedal pressure was a bit on the light side. I don't want to pay for a multi disc set up, so I am even more confused now than before... selecting your clutch set up is almost as difficult as selecting the rear end gears.... but still not as bad as my wife in a shoe store.

 

Its not about adding horsepower its about adding fun. It makes the car much easier to drive hard with the lighter flywheel. Its easier on the clutch and driveline when your shifts aren't perfect, and who doesn't want a car that revs quickly. When you blip the throttle for a downshift it only takes a light touch and it happens instantly. On a stock ap2 flywheel, the throttle response is terrible. You have to really give the throttle a punch for a quick downshift and if its not perfect you gonna get a little shot of whiplash. And last but not least, you can remove the stupid CDV valve that likes to burn up your oem clutch disk on full power upshifts. Without the fear of beating the trans and diffy every time you change gears aggressively. If your 16 and haven't mastered a clutch yet, maybe not the best choice. If your not I can't find a downside. Why you ask. Because Racecar.

 

This may or may not be of interest to some of you that are following this thread as a tool to help with your decision. I just got off the phone with one of the folks at Competition Clutch...they are located in Conyers GA. The young lady was very knowldegable on the product as well as a user...she has a 240 and ran the 6 puck with an ultra light flywheel. I asked her about the drivability of the car and she said she stalled it about 3 times in the break in period and after that it was nothing but fun to drive... I mentioned that some folks had warned me against it being to harsh to drive in traffic...she said give yourself some room until you get the feel of the set up and you will be fine. Keep in mind they also sell a less aggressive clutch, but there was no attempt on her part to "sell" me just helped educate me. So I guess if a girl in a 240 can handle a 6 puck...then I can too.

 

Is there a DIY thread for removal of the CDV valve? Do you swap it out for a AP1 valve? Do buy a AP1 valve from Honda or after market?