Cold Air Intake Question
In all the threads I've seen, I see CAIs compared in terms of power and sound. I am curious as to how effective CAIs are at lowering IATs? To make any additional power, I'm sure they have to be effective....even if it is only a couple HP.
The question comes from the hot summer we've had, and seeing IATs as high as 150 degrees.
Does anyone have any measured stats??
Thanks................Red
The question comes from the hot summer we've had, and seeing IATs as high as 150 degrees.
Does anyone have any measured stats??
Thanks................Red
Since you have an '06 AP2, it's important to only compare IAT's with other '06+ AP2's. The '00-'05' S2000's all had their IAT sensors in the intake manifold, but the newer AP2's all have the sensors in the intake tube, which will change the numbers.
I've done some testing with my OEM air box and my PWJDM CAI. There is no CAI that will allow IAT to stay at ambient, so the goal is to just reduce the delta as much as possible. With my PWJDM, I see IAT's that are about 10 degrees wamrer than ambient. The temps will climb when I'm stopped, but they drop back down very fast.
However, my OEM air box is very different. If you cruise for a long time on the highway, it will stay cool (maybe 15 degrees above ambient), but once it gets hot, it will take a LONG TIME to cool down.
I've done some testing with my OEM air box and my PWJDM CAI. There is no CAI that will allow IAT to stay at ambient, so the goal is to just reduce the delta as much as possible. With my PWJDM, I see IAT's that are about 10 degrees wamrer than ambient. The temps will climb when I'm stopped, but they drop back down very fast.
However, my OEM air box is very different. If you cruise for a long time on the highway, it will stay cool (maybe 15 degrees above ambient), but once it gets hot, it will take a LONG TIME to cool down.
gernby...
Thanks....appreciate you taking the time to write that up. Good point about the AP2s and AP1s being different, I had not thought about that when writing the post.
Thanks again
Thanks....appreciate you taking the time to write that up. Good point about the AP2s and AP1s being different, I had not thought about that when writing the post.
Thanks again
No worries....I'm just looking for some measured data that gives a ball park of a CAIs effectiveness.
My goal is to make tuning the car easier. With the high IATs, I was having timing/knock retard issues on hot (90+) degree days. The weather is getting cooler, but my overall goal is to lower the IATs.
It just strikes me sorta funny that the name of the product is Cold Air Intake and I've never seen a thread about how much colder the air is using one vs stock. Gernby posted up some good info also. I was not aware that the stock air box once hot, did not cool off quickly once back at normal speed.
Shows I need to spend more time going over the datalogs
Thanks!!
My goal is to make tuning the car easier. With the high IATs, I was having timing/knock retard issues on hot (90+) degree days. The weather is getting cooler, but my overall goal is to lower the IATs.
It just strikes me sorta funny that the name of the product is Cold Air Intake and I've never seen a thread about how much colder the air is using one vs stock. Gernby posted up some good info also. I was not aware that the stock air box once hot, did not cool off quickly once back at normal speed.
Shows I need to spend more time going over the datalogs
Thanks!!
Originally Posted by gernby,Aug 24 2010, 07:29 AM
Since you have an '06 AP2, it's important to only compare IAT's with other '06+ AP2's. The '00-'05' S2000's all had their IAT sensors in the intake manifold, but the newer AP2's all have the sensors in the intake tube, which will change the numbers.
I've done some testing with my OEM air box and my PWJDM CAI. There is no CAI that will allow IAT to stay at ambient, so the goal is to just reduce the delta as much as possible. With my PWJDM, I see IAT's that are about 10 degrees wamrer than ambient. The temps will climb when I'm stopped, but they drop back down very fast.
However, my OEM air box is very different. If you cruise for a long time on the highway, it will stay cool (maybe 15 degrees above ambient), but once it gets hot, it will take a LONG TIME to cool down.
I've done some testing with my OEM air box and my PWJDM CAI. There is no CAI that will allow IAT to stay at ambient, so the goal is to just reduce the delta as much as possible. With my PWJDM, I see IAT's that are about 10 degrees wamrer than ambient. The temps will climb when I'm stopped, but they drop back down very fast.
However, my OEM air box is very different. If you cruise for a long time on the highway, it will stay cool (maybe 15 degrees above ambient), but once it gets hot, it will take a LONG TIME to cool down.
I have read a lot of your posts and they've been very informative. I've gutted my stock airbox and today I'll be using Great Stuff insulation foam on the bottom and lid of the airbox, and then covering it with Radmat. The other night I was doing some spirited driving with a friend and noticed when we parked that my airbox was extremely warm and heated up. I had done quite a few WOT pulls up to 110+ MPH so that might account for the engine bay being so warm.
My question is, will I be lowering IAT's and keeping the box a lot cooler, avoiding heatsoak in normal and spirited driving by putting that insulation in there? Is it worth doing? I've got the Great Stuff foam already and put some in the resonance hole before I sealed it up, I'm just wondering if my efforts will be in vain.
Thanks!
If the engine bay is hot, but the air box is cool to the touch, then you know it's NOT insulated well. A well insulated air box will feel warm to the touch (on the outside). It's like an ice cold drink in a styrofoam cup. The outer surface temp of the cup will be room temp even though the drink is cold. A thin paper cup will be ice cold on the outside, and the drink will warm up quickly.
I really was pleased with the results of the gutted / insulated OEM air box. I gave it to my brother, since I have the PWJDM.
I really was pleased with the results of the gutted / insulated OEM air box. I gave it to my brother, since I have the PWJDM.
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I have been looking into this ever since I found out what my IAT temps were (AEM V2) and have been researching the Hondata heatshield intake gasket. I believe Gernby has one installed and the #'s from the install look nice. This will be my next purchase, unless I get some other input saying to go a different route.
Originally Posted by cpl_allen,Aug 24 2010, 06:11 PM
I have been looking into this ever since I found out what my IAT temps were (AEM V2) and have been researching the Hondata heatshield intake gasket. I believe Gernby has one installed and the #'s from the install look nice. This will be my next purchase, unless I get some other input saying to go a different route.
The only downside IMHO to the Hondata IMG is that it is a PITA to install, especially on the '00-'05 models. Busted knuckles and bloody hands should be expected.
Originally Posted by gernby,Aug 24 2010, 03:42 PM
I highly recommend the Hondata IMG, and I have had one on both of my S2000's. It was on my AP1 for over 70K miles, and has been on my AP2 for about 10K miles. However, some people have had bad experiences with them. Some people have had them deform due to extreme temperatures, like from track events, but I believe this is more of an install issue. If you follow the install procedure for an OEM gasket, you'll run into issues, but if you go the extra mile, and follow Marcucci's install guide, I think it works great.
The only downside IMHO to the Hondata IMG is that it is a PITA to install, especially on the '00-'05 models. Busted knuckles and bloody hands should be expected.
The only downside IMHO to the Hondata IMG is that it is a PITA to install, especially on the '00-'05 models. Busted knuckles and bloody hands should be expected.
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