Have you thought about purchasing a straight coupler and cutting the tubing to fit?

 

On my CT intake install I moved the wire loom that was located in the area under the box. This allowed for a lot more room and everything lined up. I still had to dynamat the lid and I picked up similar but longer screws from HD or Lowes and now it sounds great with no rattle.

What black paint did you use for the Ingall's mounts? Did you prime it?

 

I also moved the wire loom underneath the rear intake box mount as well, that definitely helped.

I finally cured the rattle as well, had to trim the cover more next to the fender. I agree, dynamat definitely helped.

For the Ingalls ETD, I used generic Dupont black trim paint. I did not use primer, but I should have. I wet sanded the metal before spraying. If the paint starts peeling, I will sand down and primer and paint.

 

Nope. It's hard to tell from this photo, but it looks like my coupler fits a bit more vertical than yours:



I also had to modify my box a bit to fit. Trimmed the CF lid around the hood prop support and radiator stay, drilled the rear most hole out a bit more, and added foam between the top of the box and the lid. Love how it looks and sounds now but I can't say I recommend the intake to anyone. Parts should fit when installed correctly.

 

Interesting. I can pull the tubes closer together, but I was concerned that the ends would tap each other inside the coupler, so I kept them separated.

Does the heat foil work well?

Yea, a bit disappointed with the fitment design as well. Especially since they revised the design to "fit better".. hard to excuse the poor fitment.

 

The 's' couple is supposed to be vertical not horizontal if that makes sense. I believe this is so the intake can clear the CT strut bar. I also had the same setup as you a few years ago (CT intake / ingalls etd) and it also took some play to get them both to fit. I also had fitment issues with my aftermarket radiator and cooling plate so the intake box wasn't sitting completely flush with the hood prop mount and it rubbed on my hood a little

 

Your point about the s coupler makes sense. But the intake tube seems to be too long. I'll try to refit the elbow and intake tube to shorten so I can turn the s coupler accordingly. I am considering purchasing a straight coupler and cutting the intake tube to shorten.

As of now my intake box fits very well. I also had to widen the mount hole and install washers between the rear mount bracket and frame.... Now that I think about it, the washers are probably why my intake tube is moved over towards the driver side.. but this allows my ETD to fit perfectly.

What setup do you have now in place of the ETD and CT intake?

 

Yea you could trim it if it works better for you. Looks wise it will look better but if you ever plan on getting a strut bar it might not clear it. If not then it shouldn't matter.

Now that I think about it, I had to improvise a lot and ended up not even using most of the hardware. I didn't even use the rear mount bracket because the side and bottom mount held the box securely enough and it was a PIA to get all them all to line up.

This is the only picture I was able to find of my old engine bay. My box was angled kinda weird but I was able to get everything to fit without modification



Currently I am using no ETD and a Takeda intake which fits better. The only downside is that my current intake is illegal in CA.

I still like the CT intake and think its the best option CARB legal-wise. Its simple and clean with no gaudy branding anywhere.

 

I was contemplating ditching the rear mount as well, but I moved the wire loom and added washers and drilled a larger hole to get everything to fit perfectly. It took several hours of test fitting, bolting in and removing.. I've installed many different intakes on several vehicles, this is def the most time and effort I've ever had to spend! Anyway thanks for sharing, hope your new intake and setup are working well for you.

 

I forgot to mention in my previous post that my AP2 was reading a high IAT because the sensor was too far into the bung on the intake arm to get airflow. I cut about 3/4'' off and temperatures then went back to a more normal reading, better than stock actually.