Just installed lowering springs, do I need to wait to get a alignment?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 13
From: Near Chicago
Ill get some tomorrow.
If I get koni yellow shocks that would fix it right? theyre adjustable so I should be able to adjust it for the same height.
no, they are not height adjustable.
[/quote]
Damn, when it said adjustable I assumed it meant height.
Originally Posted by Danwolski' timestamp='1347847217' post='22016313
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[/quote]
Damn, when it said adjustable I assumed it meant height.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,831
Likes: 11
Originally Posted by Danwolski' timestamp='1347847217' post='22016313
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[/quote]
I thought they were *slightly* adjustable in terms of where you set the perch at? Simply a static here or here setting?
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From: Charleston, SC. \>
Originally Posted by Gigdy' timestamp='1347902901' post='22017775
[quote name='Danwolski' timestamp='1347847217' post='22016313']
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[/quote]
I thought they were *slightly* adjustable in terms of where you set the perch at? Simply a static here or here setting?
[/quote]
there are 2 perches. But they shouldnt be close enough that you could use them to even the height out.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
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Likes: 1
From: Montgomery Alabama
I didnt know you could preload with lowering springs. I thought that was only for fully adjustable coil over setups where you can messure the ride height pre install. Do some simple math based upon the know "drop" with the weight of the car on the coilover and you run the adjustable collars up against the spring to compress it so that once the weight of the car is on it then its at the proper height.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,831
Likes: 11
Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan' timestamp='1347939881' post='22019282
[quote name='Gigdy' timestamp='1347902901' post='22017775']
[quote name='Danwolski' timestamp='1347847217' post='22016313']
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[quote name='Danwolski' timestamp='1347847217' post='22016313']
[quote name='S2K_@L3X' timestamp='1347844193' post='22016213']
that is why i wouldnt go with springs as time goes on it will just keep on getting worst, i know of 3 different s2000s that have had that problem and as time goes on they get more uneven and they went back to stock until they got some adjustable. not try to put your mood down
[/quote]
I thought they were *slightly* adjustable in terms of where you set the perch at? Simply a static here or here setting?
[/quote]
there are 2 perches. But they shouldnt be close enough that you could use them to even the height out.
[/quote]
Oh god no, I wouldn't dream of recommending them for that purpose - but they are 'adjustable' in a sense. That's what I was getting at
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 251
Likes: 2
I installed some eibach lowering springs on my car yesterday and now the alignment is off and the car pulls to the right. Do I need to wait a while for the springs to settle before getting a alignment? Also my drivers side front fender is about 1/8 inch higher than the passenger side, will this difference go away when the springs settle? Its a pretty small difference and I can only tell when I measure the wheel gap with something.
In other words.
Then make sure the alignment place you take it to knows to set your camber degree too.
Settings Thread here
Good luck,
--Matt
Also, when you need shocks (and you will eventually), Koni Yellows are just about the only option. Turns out they also have a lifetime warranty. However, you'd be hard pressed to find them under $150 / per.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,841
Likes: 1,705
From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
To clear some things up.....
Koni yellows are damping adjustable and have TWO height settings: stock and 1'' lower than stock. So you can lower the car approx. one more inch from normal. So if your springs lowered the car by 1'' already, putting the konis on the lower perch would put you at 2'' lower than stock. They are not infinitely height adjustable like a threaded shock body. It also requries that you completely disassemble the shock/spring to move the perches. This is not an easily adjustable shock. It's a height SETTING, not a height adjustment.
OP, you might have some issues with bushing lift. "Preload" is a semi correct word for clocking bushings. You should clock your bushings. Meaning that the bolts that the bushings rotate around should be tightened at ride height.
Front: Upper control arm to chassis, lower control arm to chassis (done when it's aligned), shock to lower control arm.
Rear: Upper control arm to chassis, toe arm to chassis (done at alignment), Lower control arm to chassis (one of these is done at alignment), shock to lower control arm.
ALL those bolts should be loosened up and re-tightened with the suspension at CURRENT ride height. You can use a jack on the lower control arm to push up the suspension...or put the car on the ground and tighten some of the bolts you can get to. The ones that are marked "done at alignment" are clocked when they align the car because they have to loosen those bolts with the car on the alignment rack.
It's fairly normal for ride height to be slightly uneven. Each corner of the car doesn't weigh the same. But you still need to clock the bushings to prevent bushing lift....which eventually turns into bushing weakening, which eventually turns into bushing tearing.
You can google the procedure for clocking bushings to make it more clear. Find some pictures.
Koni yellows are damping adjustable and have TWO height settings: stock and 1'' lower than stock. So you can lower the car approx. one more inch from normal. So if your springs lowered the car by 1'' already, putting the konis on the lower perch would put you at 2'' lower than stock. They are not infinitely height adjustable like a threaded shock body. It also requries that you completely disassemble the shock/spring to move the perches. This is not an easily adjustable shock. It's a height SETTING, not a height adjustment.
OP, you might have some issues with bushing lift. "Preload" is a semi correct word for clocking bushings. You should clock your bushings. Meaning that the bolts that the bushings rotate around should be tightened at ride height.
Front: Upper control arm to chassis, lower control arm to chassis (done when it's aligned), shock to lower control arm.
Rear: Upper control arm to chassis, toe arm to chassis (done at alignment), Lower control arm to chassis (one of these is done at alignment), shock to lower control arm.
ALL those bolts should be loosened up and re-tightened with the suspension at CURRENT ride height. You can use a jack on the lower control arm to push up the suspension...or put the car on the ground and tighten some of the bolts you can get to. The ones that are marked "done at alignment" are clocked when they align the car because they have to loosen those bolts with the car on the alignment rack.
It's fairly normal for ride height to be slightly uneven. Each corner of the car doesn't weigh the same. But you still need to clock the bushings to prevent bushing lift....which eventually turns into bushing weakening, which eventually turns into bushing tearing.
You can google the procedure for clocking bushings to make it more clear. Find some pictures.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 13
From: Near Chicago
To clear some things up.....
Koni yellows are damping adjustable and have TWO height settings: stock and 1'' lower than stock. So you can lower the car approx. one more inch from normal. So if your springs lowered the car by 1'' already, putting the konis on the lower perch would put you at 2'' lower than stock. They are not infinitely height adjustable like a threaded shock body. It also requries that you completely disassemble the shock/spring to move the perches. This is not an easily adjustable shock. It's a height SETTING, not a height adjustment.
OP, you might have some issues with bushing lift. "Preload" is a semi correct word for clocking bushings. You should clock your bushings. Meaning that the bolts that the bushings rotate around should be tightened at ride height.
Front: Upper control arm to chassis, lower control arm to chassis (done when it's aligned), shock to lower control arm.
Rear: Upper control arm to chassis, toe arm to chassis (done at alignment), Lower control arm to chassis (one of these is done at alignment), shock to lower control arm.
ALL those bolts should be loosened up and re-tightened with the suspension at CURRENT ride height. You can use a jack on the lower control arm to push up the suspension...or put the car on the ground and tighten some of the bolts you can get to. The ones that are marked "done at alignment" are clocked when they align the car because they have to loosen those bolts with the car on the alignment rack.
It's fairly normal for ride height to be slightly uneven. Each corner of the car doesn't weigh the same. But you still need to clock the bushings to prevent bushing lift....which eventually turns into bushing weakening, which eventually turns into bushing tearing.
You can google the procedure for clocking bushings to make it more clear. Find some pictures.
Koni yellows are damping adjustable and have TWO height settings: stock and 1'' lower than stock. So you can lower the car approx. one more inch from normal. So if your springs lowered the car by 1'' already, putting the konis on the lower perch would put you at 2'' lower than stock. They are not infinitely height adjustable like a threaded shock body. It also requries that you completely disassemble the shock/spring to move the perches. This is not an easily adjustable shock. It's a height SETTING, not a height adjustment.
OP, you might have some issues with bushing lift. "Preload" is a semi correct word for clocking bushings. You should clock your bushings. Meaning that the bolts that the bushings rotate around should be tightened at ride height.
Front: Upper control arm to chassis, lower control arm to chassis (done when it's aligned), shock to lower control arm.
Rear: Upper control arm to chassis, toe arm to chassis (done at alignment), Lower control arm to chassis (one of these is done at alignment), shock to lower control arm.
ALL those bolts should be loosened up and re-tightened with the suspension at CURRENT ride height. You can use a jack on the lower control arm to push up the suspension...or put the car on the ground and tighten some of the bolts you can get to. The ones that are marked "done at alignment" are clocked when they align the car because they have to loosen those bolts with the car on the alignment rack.
It's fairly normal for ride height to be slightly uneven. Each corner of the car doesn't weigh the same. But you still need to clock the bushings to prevent bushing lift....which eventually turns into bushing weakening, which eventually turns into bushing tearing.
You can google the procedure for clocking bushings to make it more clear. Find some pictures.
Oh and the springs seem to have settled a bit and the ride height is a lot closer to being even on all sides, but if this helps Ill do it.
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