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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 04:27 AM
  #41  
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Motor is from a wrecked car along with the trans. and rear diff.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 04:32 AM
  #42  
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I dont think its a bad setup. OP, if you have access to some plastic sheets or even sheet metal, cut a square and bolt it on instead of the styrofoam. It'll be much better.

As for the 55W setup, as long as he has it hooked up to a relay it should handle the power. I agree that you should be running a better color bulb but as always, its your choice.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 05:31 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ikeyballz
I dont think its a bad setup. OP, if you have access to some plastic sheets or even sheet metal, cut a square and bolt it on instead of the styrofoam. It'll be much better.

As for the 55W setup, as long as he has it hooked up to a relay it should handle the power. I agree that you should be running a better color bulb but as always, its your choice.

Not a bad setup outside of the fact that he is getting almost less light output than halogen bulbs....

To each their own but I never understood why some people downgrade.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 05:40 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by xyster
Motor is from a wrecked car along with the trans. and rear diff.
Coolness! Overall was the build difficult? Reason I am asking, saw a silver "ls2000" and thought it sound awesome. Do you think there's room for force induction? Don't want to sound stupid, but I really have no idea.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 05:54 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ikeyballz
I dont think its a bad setup. OP, if you have access to some plastic sheets or even sheet metal, cut a square and bolt it on instead of the styrofoam. It'll be much better.

As for the 55W setup, as long as he has it hooked up to a relay it should handle the power. I agree that you should be running a better color bulb but as always, its your choice.
Thanks for trying to find justification in all this. It doesn't matter any more. Justification is irrelevant at this point. I'll just go back to the oem setup just because I obviously have no idea what I am doing. Just will keep my aftermarket ballasts and bulbs just in case these oems ones burn out. Probably will remove the tint too so I don't harm the head lights. Cause even stock bulbs could possibly cause enough heat to also crack my head lights. So won't take that chance.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #46  
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Yeah got back to OEM that is your best bet. Honda engineered these stock headlights to work great way better than that china stuff.
The only way the headlights will crack is if there is any material over them that will trap the heat
Look, it's cool if you didn't know no big deal. I'm just trying to provide constructive criticism
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #47  
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Thank you for the comment. It's all good man. Once I get time to remove my front end will change them out. It's cool.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #48  
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Keep them in if you like them, but just know the risk you are taking is all.

There are a few cases of head lights getting small cut like cracks in them from vinyl. Wont happen to every headlight, but in some cases it happens.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:05 AM
  #49  
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Intresting, I really would like to see if someone out the might have a pic what that would look like and know what to look for signs. I have seen head lights crystalize or have that weird shatter look. Not from ever having vinyl, but I guess probably the heat from the bulb possibly?
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Lovenpain
Originally Posted by xyster' timestamp='1312979256' post='20864163
Motor is from a wrecked car along with the trans. and rear diff.
Coolness! Overall was the build difficult? Reason I am asking, saw a silver "ls2000" and thought it sound awesome. Do you think there's room for force induction? Don't want to sound stupid, but I really have no idea.
Swap was not to bad i did it all myself and yes there is plenty of room for FI.
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