^Edited. LOL. 17mm was a mistake. You need 12mm total to get 1" of clear travel.

I'm not saying 1" is what YOU want.

I'm say 1" is achievable with 12mm on my car. Fudge it around a little bit for a 100% full weight car.

 

Hi B where did the 447 come from? I think I follow the rest of the math except for that. Also should be fine to adjust the RIDE HEIGHT on the car or off the car too?

And did you cut the rear dust cover or just left it alone?

 

447/in is a 8kg/mm spring.

8kg = 17.6LB
1mm = .0393"

17.6/.0393 = 447LB/IN.

Ride height can be adjusted on the car.

I left the dust cover alone, IIRC.

I edited my math a bit lol. I am doing 3 things at once right now. Sorry about the errors.

I'll make my own thread maybe tonight. I'll be able to calmly post my math instead of doing math while I'm calculating something else I'm working on. These numbers are running into each other in my head haha.

 

Cool sounds good , lot of good info here, my goal is to set the preload correctly and then let the shop do the ride height and alignment

 

I'll say that with Öhlins' 2mm setting, I have been able to open up the diff at 2 different tracks. Its occured on low speed/low gear corners that I am attempting to dig my way out of.

This is on RE71R's. 00 AP1 with both factory bars linked up.

It gets worse if I set the shocks softer. Gets better if I stiffen them.

dunno what it'll do if I disconnect the bar.

My fear is that if I jack up the preload to get 1" of clear shock travel...I will be losing even more droop. So....theoretically, my diff will be more liable to open.

Stock helical diff. A clutching diff DGAF contact patch.

If you're tracking the car....you probably won't need as much clear travel because most tracks are smooth...and a progressive bumpstop limiter may be desired earlier to control the car anyway. You know...like a race car.

STOCK honda suspensions are designed to make heavy use of the bumpstops. So..don't fret too much about needing to use a progressive bumpstop every now and then.

If your primary use is the street...I think a 1" clear travel setting will make for a better ride than 0.6". But...idk without trying.

If you're taking turns hard enough to open your diff on the street...I suggest going back to jail.

My car is a street/track car. I'm gonna try the 1" setting. If my diff can't EVEN...then, I'll need to dial it down. Or buy a diff :/

 

Absolutely set them on a bench to start, couldn't agree more. On the car, the bushings (if indexed properly) would be pulling the control arm up back to ride height position. However the weight of the brakes, hub, etc would be pulling the arm back down. Because of the limited travel, my guess is it would not take much force to fully extend the shock.

But this is guess work, I will actually install them this week end and let you know how it works out. FYI, I went with 6mm of rear preload.

 

B Serious thanks for the last couple of posts. Massively helpful

 

Ah gotcha.

Well...once they're in the car, and you know your initial preload...if youd like to then adjust the preload...you don't need to extend the shock.

Just remember than 1 turn of the spring perch is 1.5mm vertical.

So...if you have 6mm to start, and you want 3mm more, just turn the most upper spring perch 2 turns CCW.

Come to think of it, that method replaces my first thought of "remove to reset". I forgot Öhlins specs a 1.5mm to 1 turn ratio

BTW, how much clear travel did 6mm REAR preload give you? Hopefully 0.8" total?

I say hopefully, because if 6mm gives 0.8", then it proves my theory that 12mm gives 1.0"

 

Yes let us know, B do you have the over all length to get the drop you have? Looks like 1 finger space all the way around?

 

10mm from Recommended 15+/- ^^^