what Engine Mods prior to FI?
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 23,911
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From: Benicia, CA
No need of a header, since you'll be replacing it with a manifold. And you're not going to be using the same intake once you go FI so...
With a small turbo I can't see a need for you to open up the block, except you can't go wrong with toda cams. But #2 is good, you never wanna starve yourself fuel
With a small turbo I can't see a need for you to open up the block, except you can't go wrong with toda cams. But #2 is good, you never wanna starve yourself fuel
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
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From: South Florida
NM i just dont think your getting it 
theres just people making 500+ on stock blocks STONE STOCK BLOCKS.
my small 344whp is near 400 crank. stock untouched block.
there is no better pad then oem for the street. all track pads will be inferior on cold bite, and will squeal like a bitch on partial brake. s2k brakes are very very good. remember, this car was designed for performance, not grocery getting.
no aftermarket cams needed, no motor work at all needed if you want 500whp or less.
A GOOD TUNE is what you need.
theres just people making 500+ on stock blocks STONE STOCK BLOCKS.
my small 344whp is near 400 crank. stock untouched block.
there is no better pad then oem for the street. all track pads will be inferior on cold bite, and will squeal like a bitch on partial brake. s2k brakes are very very good. remember, this car was designed for performance, not grocery getting.
no aftermarket cams needed, no motor work at all needed if you want 500whp or less.
A GOOD TUNE is what you need.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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not trying to high jack but just a quick question im going fi as well soon. should i buy clutch first then aem ems and then go FI im looking or around 420-450whp maybe even 475whp. im going act pp on a 6 puck sprung. also would a headgasket be needed?
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Originally Posted by camuman,Apr 7 2010, 03:20 PM
listen, none of this stage stuff is needed.
you want FI?
prepare to do a clutch
then do stand alone + fuel + FI after.
stock brakes work fine. stock everything else is fine. though tires may be screachin depending on how much power you wanna make.
you want FI?
prepare to do a clutch
then do stand alone + fuel + FI after.
stock brakes work fine. stock everything else is fine. though tires may be screachin depending on how much power you wanna make.
go read the Forced Induction section for more info.
these questions pop up all the time.
Injectors....Exhaust...test pipe... Stand Alone Engine management and clutch. AND an Excellent tune
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I know a Supra can make a 1000 horsepower on stock internals, doesn't mean that you SHOULD do that... doesn't matter that it will quality 1khp does it?
I don't just want that number at the top of my dyno printout to say: well done! you have a big dick and 400whp!
I want quality HP/TQ curves, good response from the engine and throttle and I want this to last and run smooth... so aftermarket plumbing, intakes, exhaust, valve springs etc seems logical at some stage
I don't just want that number at the top of my dyno printout to say: well done! you have a big dick and 400whp!
I want quality HP/TQ curves, good response from the engine and throttle and I want this to last and run smooth... so aftermarket plumbing, intakes, exhaust, valve springs etc seems logical at some stage
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Curves are more about the size of turbo with this car than the engine internals. Ask camuman for his
. Check out what people do vs. what their plots look like on the FI forum. I've never noticed any trend with built motors vs. stock internals showing much difference on the curve--the choice of turbo is what drives it.
Based on what others have been doing on the board, there's no need to build the motor in prep for FI unless your goals are >~450-500whp or you just want to. You certainly can, but it's a lot of money to spend for a really negligible return on this car. The internals are already forged, so you aren't going to gain a ton of additional strength. And you can always reduce compression with a 3mm HG when you go FI if you want a little more safety.
I would think the full exhaust, tune, and clutch/flywheel are all you really need. Spend the balance of your extra pre-FI money on tires and suspension instead of building the motor and you'll be happier IMO. Or consider a differential; those can go if you want to drop the clutch often.
Curves are more about the size of turbo with this car than the engine internals. Ask camuman for his
. Check out what people do vs. what their plots look like on the FI forum. I've never noticed any trend with built motors vs. stock internals showing much difference on the curve--the choice of turbo is what drives it. Based on what others have been doing on the board, there's no need to build the motor in prep for FI unless your goals are >~450-500whp or you just want to. You certainly can, but it's a lot of money to spend for a really negligible return on this car. The internals are already forged, so you aren't going to gain a ton of additional strength. And you can always reduce compression with a 3mm HG when you go FI if you want a little more safety.
I would think the full exhaust, tune, and clutch/flywheel are all you really need. Spend the balance of your extra pre-FI money on tires and suspension instead of building the motor and you'll be happier IMO. Or consider a differential; those can go if you want to drop the clutch often.
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