psychoazn

First is from 8100 5W30
Second is from 300V.

300V is also dyno proven to slightly improve HP.

Other things to note, is that the 300V was run for a 5500 mile interval, with copious amounts of extended VTEC; my Oil Change indicator was showing 5% when I changed my oil (I was slightly nervous about this, but had faith in the product).

Also, note that the oil had ZERO breakdown/shear. 8100 resisted breakdown better than the conventional oil used before, but 300V was rock solid.

starchland

few q's if ya dont mind:

any source for the dyno gain?

and

what kind of air filter are you using

thanks

psychoazn

OEM Air Filter, and I do have a dyno, but my dyno is inconclusive as to the oil as my first baseline was at 700 miles, and the second dyno was around 17000 (break-in) The gain would be a combination of the break-in and the oil, although I cannot give a further breakdown of what each one did without some additional dynoing and an oil change on the dyno.

Airbox cover on and off did not make a difference on the dyno (but Shawn does have a HUGE fan which moves an insane amount of air).








per:

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html

psychoazn

Ooops I just realized I put in raw numbers for torque (which is what a dynapack reads)

I can re-screenshot one with torque corrected for gearing if requested.

starchland

thanks. think i remember reading that test on a bike site

S2Kage

An oil Dyno? lmao

2007 Zx-10

300V has a high dose of moly!

psychoazn

Probably a contributing factor to the cost....

LostMotion

The cost is determined by the ester bases and the friction modifiers which don't show up in an analysis, other than the lack of shear you see. Molyb is cheap.