jo.strup

Ok so I've been doin a lot of browsing the internet lookin, learning and researching all the different options of tuning and parts for my ap1. I'm new to this world of modding and stuff, and I look at these stroker kits right? They say they fit the f20, but has a longer stroke than stock which is probably the whole point of a "stroker kit", but I'm not getting how that'd fit. Call me stupid, but can someone explain it to me? Or just post a link for me to look at to get my answeres. do I need other parts to make a stroker kit work? what are the specs as in gains for them? I appreciate any input

05BBs2k

A stroker kit is usually much more than just different rods. it involves replacing the rods, pistons, and sleeves. As well modification to the block to accommodate the longer stroke, ie notching the bottom of the cylinder where the rod passes by it. usually you will have a machine shop remove the old sleeves and press in new ones. along with that of course you would need something like the AEM EMS for it to run. Power wise there are plenty of build threads in the NA section that tell you exactly what they put in there and what their final numbers are

05BBs2k

Heres a good link to help you understand exactly what takes place.
Also forgot, a stroker kit uses a different crankshaft as well

http://www.inlinepro.com/s1/c-23-engine-builds.aspx

H22toF20

A stroker crank is a crank that is bigger than OEM. To fit this in a motor correctly you need shorter rods and/or the wrist pin's need to be higher, so the piston's don't stick out of the block.

What does this accomplish? More displacement means more power everywhere in the powerband. Although, to keep the reliability up means less RPM's due to the worse rod/stroke ratio; increased piston speeds and cylinder wall loading.

jo.strup

Thanks for the input. So say I had a shop do the work I know it differs from shop to shop but what's the ballpark cost im lookin at for the install of a kit?

STL2SLW

All depends on the kit. How big you plan to go. A stock 2.2 crank, inlinepro 92,94,97,99,100,106mm, BC 97mm it all really varies alot

jo.strup

Jeez. I don't really know. Im just lookin in to it. I wanna know the advantages and worth for the performance gained. I read somewhere u lose a little hp but gain some torque just like the f22 that has more torque stock just with a little more displacement ..and with other added upgrades would I get more out of it than just keeping it at 2.0? And also id like to keep the 9k rev. And with a longer stroke it becomes more fragile it that speed. At least that's what im getting from what I've looked at and read..

05BBs2k

Basically you wont really know the numbers until you do it. i mean that all depends on what you are building with ie, what CR, Stroke, Bore, what cams you are using, whether or not you have a port and polish on the head with different valves. basically it is all up to what you want. i would give a company like inline pro a call and they can help you choose what is best for you. as far as losing hp that is BS. the only reason that would happen is if you built it with lower compression pistons for use with boost and then didnt run boost. also there is no real need for it to have the 9k red line especially if you get rid of vtec with the toda cams. i would say if you really want to keep 9k and dont want to spend alot of $$$ then just go FI. but i will be the first to agree that a built motor NA is way cooler than any with a turbo slapped on it

05BBs2k

Inline pro will fully build you a short block with their kit to your specifications with their parts and CP pistons for 4G's. not too bad IMO considering they built a 2.47l N/A that made 346hp at the wheels in their drag civic. keep in mind that would be about 3-4% less in an S due to drivetrain loss. they can also do the valve job as well

Calamari

stroker kit uses a crankshaft that spins at a larger diameter that brings the piston down more than it's original position, thus increasing size of the cylinder.